Thailand

Nestled beautifully under the branches of a banyan tree, the ancient temple Wat Bang Kung, in the Thai village of the same name combines hiking, pilgrimage, and historical memories. Here's a detailed review of this attraction:.

While Thailand boasts numerous temples and Buddhist monasteries, this unique small temple deserves a pilgrimage. Visiting the temple serves as an excuse to take a longtail boat ride on the Mae Khlong River. As you depart from the pier, you traverse through a forest of giant banyan trees with intertwined roots. There lies Wat Bang Kung, engulfed by a thick canopy of trees. Majestic Banyans, have you forgotten the heroic battle that marked this place, now sheltered by your foliage? Over 250 years ago, this verdant ground was stained red with the blood of Ayutthaya warriors when Burmese troops attacked the city. Though the battlefield has transformed into a forest park, the Buddhist temple remembers and will pass down the story to future generations. A must-visit during your stay in Samut Songkhram, a central province of Thailand!

Historical notes

The temple's origins date back to the 13th century, during the reign of the Ayutthaya Kingdom over most of Siam. The exact construction date remains unknown. In 1765, Burmese troops under General Ne Myo Thihapate invaded the capital. Ekkathat, the reigning monarch, lacked warrior qualities, consumed by carnal pleasures, luxury, and women. The Burmese saw an opportunity to strike a fatal blow to the Ayutthaya Kingdom. Ekkathat's army camped at Bang Kung, a small village near the Mae Klong River, lending its name to Wat Bang Kung, a Buddhist temple built for the officers. The Siamese army suffered a significant defeat; Ayutthaya was razed, pillaged, and burned by the Burmese. April 1767 marks the end of the kingdom.

In an unexpected turn, General Taksin avenged Ayutthaya's soldiers; he captured Thonburi and drove the Burmese out of Siamese territory. Chinese immigrants from Ratchaburi and Kanchanaburi sided with him, fearing the Burmese invasion of China. A military detachment regrouped around Bang Kung, the same camp where Ekkathat's army was defeated, renaming it "Chinese Camp of Bang Kung." General Taksin succeeded where Ekkathat failed: the Burmese were crushed, returning to their homeland in 1768, while Taksin and his army were triumphantly welcomed in Thonburi, the new capital.

Over the years, the camp was abandoned, and the sanctuary was orphaned by its faithful. The soldiers' cries gave way to silence, horse sounds to bird cooing; banyan fig trees shaded the area with their multiple trunks. Fortunately, the Buddhist temple remains to remind posterity of this battle! This is why it was declared a national archaeological site in 1996.

Temple architecture

For a European who has toured the dream temples of Bangkok, Wat Bang Kung may not impress architecturally. The sanctuary's décor is rather simple inside and out. It's the labyrinth of roots and foliage that makes it exceptional, emerging from the trunk of a giant banyan tree. The feeling of being in a Lord of the Rings remake is almost perfect. Moreover, the temple's allure is attributed to its military history linked to Bang Kung.

Major attractions

Rather than opting for a self-guided tour, a guided tour is highly recommended. A local guide can introduce you to the temple's history, explain architectural details, and provide a captivating account of the 1765 battle between Thailand and Myanmar.

Some curiosities that may catch visitors' attention include:

• In the ordination hall, there is a golden Buddha in a lotus position, commonly referred to as Luang Phot Bot Noi.
• Just steps from the sanctuary, admire the statue of General Taksin (the future king of Thonburi) and the statues of valiant warriors who fought alongside him to defend their homeland.
• For visitors with children, an animal sanctuary is located nearby, allowing observation of birds and primates.

Practical information

Price and opening hours

Free admission. Visiting hours are from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Dress code

It's disheartening to see many European visitors wearing short, light clothing in Buddhist temples. When staying in Thailand, it's important not to offend religious beliefs. Proper attire is a sign of respect for Lord Buddha. Leave your shoes at the door when entering prayer halls.

How to get there

Wat Bang Kung is conveniently located on the banks of the Mae Klong River. To reach this ancient temple in Samut Songkhram, take the road towards the Rama II Memorial Park. Just before reaching the Virgin Mary Chapel, you'll see a left turn. Follow this turn, cross the Somdet Phra Ammarin Bridge, and take a second left turn. The road leads straight to the temple after 6 km.

The best way to get there is by renting a boat from Amphawa Pier. Enjoyably rocking on the water, visitors can tour Buddhist temples in the region. The starting point for the cruise is the Amphawa Floating Market.