Thailand

With its eight-tiered stupa, reminiscent of the Eiffel Tower in Paris or the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon, Wat Nong Wang stands as Khon Kaen's primary Buddhist monument. A must-visit during any trip to Isan.

What tourist has ever come to Khon Kaen without pondering Wat Nong Wang and its majestic stupa? Established in 1789, the temple is one of the few historical landmarks in the city. However, its reputation rests on one unique attraction. People do not come to Wat Nong Wang to see the four-faced Brahma statue, the Buddha opening the three worlds, or the elegant glass windows and doors of the ordination hall. The temple's main curiosity is the Phra Mahathat Kaen Nakhon, an extraordinary pyramidal stupa unique to all of Thailand. By exploring the ground floor and the eight tiers of the stupa, visitors can pay homage to Khon Kaen's artistic heritage: silverware, furniture, sculptures, murals depicting the city's history, or narrating Jataka tales and characters from folklore… Your journey to Khon Kaen would be incomplete without experiencing this spectacular monument.

Historical notes

The year 1789 saw the birth of the modern city of Khon Kaen when King Rama I conquered the Northeast region. Wat Nong Wang was erected in the same year. Major development projects transformed it into a religious complex in 1984, when it was placed under royal patronage by His Majesty. The monastery then acquired its definitive boundaries: 41 square kilometers. It includes an ubosot (the holiest chamber), a series of viharas, a giant stupa, a crematorium, and monastery quarters. In recent years, the temple monks have taken on a charitable role by funding public schools and managing a health center for the underprivileged classes.

The giant stupa, which has drawn much admiration, was built later. The concept for the structure came from Luang Paw Koon Kantigo, a deeply revered monk in the region. The first stones were laid in 1990, and construction was completed in 1996. The inauguration of the stupa marked the celebration of King Bhumibol Adulyadej's 50th anniversary reign and also commemorated the 200th anniversary of Khon Kaen city. Thus, the nine levels of the building were deliberately chosen to honor Bhumidol Adulyadej, who was the second monarch of the Chakri dynasty.

Today

Located south of the city on Klangmuang Road, Phra Mahathat Kaen Nakhon is the top attraction for visitors. It is among the historical sites recommended by the Tourism Authority, alongside Phra That Kham Kaen and the Khon Kaen Museum. Reaching the eighth floor offers a breathtaking view of the city and Bueng Kaen Nakhon Lake, making it an ideal starting point for exploring northern Isan.

Tour of the Buddhist Temple

The nine-story temple, another name for Wat Nong Wang's stupa, has a square base that gradually tapers as it rises. Its architectural style bears a striking resemblance to the Shwedagon Pagoda, with a roof crowned by a chti, the distinctive umbrella of Burmese stupas and pagodas. There is also a strong resemblance to the Eiffel Tower, which is not surprising given that Luang Paw Koon Kantigo had traveled abroad. Its length equals its width (50 meters), and its height reaches nearly 80 meters. Before entering inside, take a moment to admire the multi-headed nagas guarding the threshold.

Ground floor

Here lies the temple's most revered treasure: relics of the Lord Buddha housed in a crystal sarcophagus topped with a nine-branched roof. The walls of the ground floor tell the origins of Khon Kaen, local customs, and the legend of the four frangipani trees, handsome and vigorous young princes who were transformed into trees, cut down, and thrown into the river before regaining their human form. The legend teaches that good deeds are always rewarded. Next to the sarcophagi are 108 alms bowls placed on a table, once belonging to Buddha's disciples.

1st floor

The cultural museum on the first floor contains an assortment of items: basketry, pottery, books made from palm leaves, wind instruments, etc. Murals depict Isan taboos and the story of Sinxay, taken from a famous Lao poem.

2nd floor

The second floor houses the monks' training hall with finely crafted doors and windows depicting the tale of Nang Phom Hom, the lady with perfumed hair.

3rd floor

A collection of Buddhist iconography awaits on the third floor. The statues were crafted in different periods, allowing comparisons of various artistic movements that influenced Isan. Paintings recount the childhood of Luang Paw Koon Kantigo, his life on the farm, his journey to Germany, and the stupa's construction.

4th floor

If the murals on the lower floors highlight folklore, the fourth floor showcases purely Buddhist paintings. The walls depict Buddha's ascetic journey after enlightenment.

5th floor

Bronze images abound on the fifth floor. They represent Luang Paw Koon Kantigo's mentors. There is also an image of him alongside a multi-armed Vishnu. Take time to study the doors and windows whose carvings narrate the Vessantara Jataka story (the name given to Buddha during his earthly life).

6th floor

The sixth floor's hall contains a bronze bell and an intricately carved chest. The doors and windows recount the exciting adventure of Temi, a mute prince.

7th floor

A library room holding foundational Buddhist manuscripts awaits you on the penultimate floor.

8th floor

It's hard not to be moved by the unique view of the city and Bueng Kaen Nakhon Lake once you reach the eighth floor. The main attraction is the central throne housing Buddha's precious remains. It is common to see devotees praying and kneeling before the throne. The sculpted images on the doors represent the "formless realms," where the blissful have no corporeal form upon reaching enlightenment. These are the stages of spirituality preceding nirvana.

Practical information

Opening hours and fees

Wat Nong Wang is open daily from Monday to Sunday, typically from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. However, the nine levels of the stupa do not open at the same time.

The ground floor is open from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m..

The upper floors are open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m..

Dress code

Remember that you are entering a sacred place. Proper attire is required; short, provocative, or overly revealing clothing is equally inappropriate.

How to get there

As the provincial capital, Khon Kaen has a well-equipped and busy airport. Many airlines connect Khon Kaen and Bangkok in just an hour's flight. Once in the city center, take bus numbers 8, 14, or 23 to reach the temple.

Nearby attractions

Have you enjoyed visiting the nine-story stupa? Not far away, other natural and cultural sites worth a visit include:

• Phra That Kham Kaen, a magnificent stupa located north of the city;
• Phu Wiang National Park;
• Phu Pha Man National Park.