Thailand
In the vicinity of the City of Angels, the royal temple of Suwannaram captivates many a traveler. It blends Ayutthaya architecture with the sculptural masterpieces of the Rattanakosin era.
Who hasn't admired the quality of religious art at Wat Suwannaram, the Buddhist temple located in the heart of Thonburi? An eminent example of Ayutthaya style, the building entices with its golden roof. Mentioning the temple's name brings to mind scenes of violence and atrocity. The guide will tell you that Burmese prisoners of war met their fate here under an order from King Taksin. However, beyond this somber history, the sanctuary houses a cycle of murals depicting significant moments in the life of Buddha before his enlightenment. A worthwhile visit, perhaps combined with a boat tour on the Mahasawat canal!
History notes
Originally, the monks named it Wat Thong or "Golden Monastery." The structure is one of the legacies of the powerful Ayutthaya Kingdom, which controlled northern Thailand from the 14th to the 16th centuries. Wat Suwannaram Ratchaworawihan, commonly known as Wat Suwannaram or simply Wat Suwan, regardless of its designation, hides many secrets behind its walls. When King Taksin ascended the throne, he used the temple for military retribution. Many Burmese men and women, deported by the Siamese army, were brought here to be executed.
In the 17th century, the temple underwent restoration at the request of King Rama III or Nangklao. Renowned painters were specially recruited to decorate the walls, including Kru Thong Yu and Kru Khong Pae, who achieved a masterpiece with their murals depicting the Jataka legends.
During the reign of Chulalongkorn, better known as Rama V, a part of the temple served as a royal crematorium. Apart from crowned heads, generals, and high officials of the kingdom were also cremated here.
Description of Suwannaram Temple
Building architecture
Located in central Thonburi, on the outskirts of Bangkok, Wat Suwannaram is a religious monument worth exploring in its entirety. It meets your expectations of artistic prowess and anecdotes from royal annals. Thai style asserts itself with a flamboyant golden facade and a teak wood viharn. The ordination hall is where monks publicly declare their vows. The roof of the hall, with its skillfully crafted curves, mimics a Chinese junk; the red roof complements the pale blue of the loggia and the golden yellow of the windows. The ordination chamber stands as a fine example of Ayutthaya art.
Main attraction: Jataka Frescoes
The interior of the temple warrants even more interest due to its quality artistic equipment. Murals from the early 20th century, signed by Kru Thong Yu and Kru Khong Pae, captivate visitors' attention. The authors celebrate episodes from the Jataka tales: Gautama's birth under the sacred Bodhi tree at Lumbini, the prophecy of the seers, the wedding feast, the prince's departure from the kingdom of Kapilavastu, his adventurous life as an ascetic until enlightenment. Despite the test of time, these well-preserved frescoes rank among the finest jewels of Rattanakosin art. Apart from Buddha's biography, the paintings also provide ample insights into Thailand's iconic cities, palaces, and monuments. Don't miss the large golden Buddha, named Pang Man Wichai, dating back to the Sukhothai era.
Historical memories
If you opt for a guided tour, you'll learn about the crimes associated with this place. How else can you describe King Taksin's execution order against poor Burmese who merely fell into the hands of Siamese officers? According to rumors, the place is haunted. Guards claim to have seen a headless ghost near the bell tower, while others suggest that spirits wander in the school playground of the sanctuary. Temples change faces with the rise and fall of empires: monastery, place of execution, or royal crematorium, but prayers from sincere hearts pierce the unyielding silence of the divinities.
If you feel a bit peckish after your visit, head to the food stalls clustered at the entrance of Wat Suwannaram. You can enjoy good food at reasonable prices.
Around Wat Suwannaram
Next to the temple, Baan Bu workshop is another popular attraction. It's inaccurate to call it a "workshop" because Baan Bu forms an entire community of bronze artisans near the Bangkok Noi canal. For 200 years, they have preserved and passed down their craftsmanship through generations. Among their masterpieces are polished stone bowls that begging monks hold out to solicit rice from passersby. They also craft Buddha figurines.
Don't leave without taking a cruise on the Mahasawat canal. The aforementioned Buddhist temple stands on the west bank of the canal. In the past, this waterway was actively used by suburban farmers to transport rice and other agricultural goods to Bangkok's supply markets. As you cruise along the canal, you'll pass through verdant rice fields, orchid gardens, and lotus ponds. Garden lovers will return home satisfied with beautiful flower bouquets!
How to get there?
Wat Suwannaram Temple is located on the west side of Bangkok Noi canal, in Thonburi district, Bangkok city. To get there, the simplest way is to take bus (line 145) or the metro. Ferry services departing from Bangkok are also available.
