Thailand
Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the dream temples of Si Satchanalai, in northern Thailand, invite you on an exciting journey through time.
We are in the ancient city of Sukothai, the first kingdom of Siam and the cradle of Mahayana Buddhism. Located 450 kilometers north of Bangkok, far from the bustling and overcrowded streets, ancient temples reaching tens of meters high, serene-faced Buddhas, and stone elephants stand amidst a wooded garden. The gentle landscapes, the majesty of the sanctuary towers, and the magnificently preserved Khmer ruins bring peace and tranquility, reminding us of the grandeur of a bygone civilization. This is the religious center of Si Satchanalai, founded in the 13th century by Sri Indraditya and conquered two centuries later by Tilokarat. It is the artistic and cultural radiance of the Sukhothai kingdom. It is a true architectural feat, with sandstone and laterite towers perfectly integrated into the greenery, palm trees, and ponds strewn with lotus flowers. Enjoy a cultural escapade to Si Satchanalai during a leisure trip to Sukhothai province.
History
"The City of Good People" was so named in 1250 by King Sri Indraditya, the father of the Phra Ruang dynasty, which is considered the first historical dynasty of Thailand. Previously, the city was known as Chaliang, or "water city," and was subject to the Angkor Empire. With the help of Pha Mueang, Sri Indraditya liberated Chaliang from the Khmer yoke and integrated it into the young kingdom of Sukothai. He placed his son, Ban Mueang, at the head of the city.
Si Satchanalai was built in the eastern part of Chaliang. It played an important role during the peak of the kingdom due to its border position with Lanna and Burma. Without enjoying the same prestige as its neighbor Sukothai, it acquired the title of second capital or princely city. While Sukothai was the seat of royal power, Si Satchanalai was the cultural and religious capital.
After the collapse of the Sukothai kingdom, Si Satchanalai was temporarily ruled by the Lanna princes from 1451 until 1454, when it became a vassal kingdom of Ayutthaya. Manuscript annals describe the city, renamed Sawankhalok, as a major center for ceramic production in all of Asia. It not only supplied the Ayutthaya royal court but also exported porcelain utensils to the Philippines, Indonesia, and Japan. The current form of the locality dates back to the 16th century. Its plan is rectangular, and 5-meter-high walls once surrounded it to deter Burmese invaders.
The sanctification of Si Satchanalai took place in 1766, during a bloody battle between Myanmar and Ayutthaya. After that, the temple city was deserted, forever orphaned by its inhabitants, who resettled in the modern district of Sawankhalok.
Today: a historically significant site
Every year, thousands of visitors flock to the ruins of the Si Satchanalai temples. Considering its political and military past, but above all its Khmer monuments, adorned with paintings and imposing stone statues that herald the early developments of Thai architecture, the city was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991 alongside the historical parks of Sukhothai and Kamphaeng Phet.
Stroll in the historical park of Si Satchanalai
No less than 215 ruins are recorded within the park. Signs in Thai and English are available for the most important sites, shedding light on the history, functional use of the site, and architectural and artistic movements of the time. Here are the highlights:
The Temple of the Holy and Precious Relic (Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahattat)
Wat Phra Si is not only the oldest temple in Si Satchanalai but also its most beautiful architectural icon. The first stones were laid in the 13th century, during the reign of Jayavarman VII. The shikhara roof, identical to a mountain tower, attests to typical Khmer art.
Standing in front of the prang gate, admire the four-faced god Brahma and observe the elegant dancers on the bas-reliefs (the Apsaras). Several Khmer remnants scatter around the main prang: the Phra That Mutao pagoda, designed by the Mon people; the stupas of Sri Lankan origin, the Phra Song Phi Nong vihara, which houses two majestic Buddhas; and more. Do not hesitate to climb to the top of the prang for a breathtaking view of the ruins and the surrounding countryside.
The visitor reaches Wat Phra Si after passing through the monumental gate of the city and crossing the wooden bridge suspended over the Yom River. Then, it takes a 20-minute bike ride from Wat Phra Si to the entrance of the Si Satchanalai Historical Park. The charming, authentic villages encountered along the way will make you forget your fatigue.
The Queen's Temple, or Wat Nang Phaya
This pagoda from the 15th century was built after the city was taken by the Ayutthaya army. According to Rama VI, the idea for the construction came from an imperial Chinese princess named Pasuja Devi. This information is based on legend, without archaeological investigation having established its historicity. Nevertheless, Wat Nang Phaya is renowned for the delicate stucco motifs that adorn the facade of its vihara. It's incredible to learn that prayers and conversations once resounded in this meeting hall, whose architecture subtly blends Lanna and Sukothai influences.
The Elephant-Inhabited Temple (Wat Chang Lom)
Hats off to this square-based stupa with a superb forest backdrop! Notice the two-level structure, erected in 1286 by King Ram Khamhaeng, who succeeded Ban Mueang on the throne of Sukothai. Observe the 20 rounded niches on the second level, inside which were stone Buddhas 140 cm tall. But above all, pay attention to the charming elephant statues that encircle the first floor of the stupa. There are 39 of them. Four large elephants stand at each corner; nine smaller elephants line the four sides; but one statue has been lost.
The Temple of the Seven Monuments (Wat Chedi Chet Thaeo)
Just south of Wat Chang Lom, large sets of pagodas stand before visitors. This is Wat Chedi Chet Thaeo, built in the 14th century by a princess of Sukothai and named after its 32 stupas arranged in 7 rows. The main stupa deserves credit for retaining its lotus-bud-shaped top.
Wat Chom Chuen
On the road between Wat Phra Si and the historical park of Si Satchanalai, you can detour to Wat Chom Chuen. A spherical-plan stupa, vihara, and mandapa are in excellent condition.
Practical information
Prices and opening hours
The site is open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Foreigners are required to pay an entrance fee of 100 baht (€2.8), while residents pay only 20 baht (56 c€). To visit Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahattat, located outside the historical park, you will need to pay an additional fee of 20 baht.
When to go?
Like the northern cities, the climate of Si Satchanalai is significantly cooler and rainier than the rest of the country. Plan your vacation dates between November and February.
How to get there?
Biking is the ideal means of transportation for touring the park. At 3 kilometers from the entrance, you'll see a convenience store next to a small bridge, which rents bikes for 30 THB, equivalent to 84 euro cents. That said, the main task is reaching the historical park of Si Satchanalai from downtown Sukothai.
Be warned: public buses to Si Satchanalai often change schedules, and punctuality is not their strong suit. It's most convenient to hire the services of private transport if your budget allows. Otherwise, make sure to go very early to the Sukothai bus terminal. There are four departures during the day: at 7:00 a.m., 9:00 a.m., 10:30 a.m., and 11:30 a.m. Expect a journey of one and a half hours for a cost of €1.4. Pray the driver kindly informs you when the bus stops near Wat Phra Si.
Nearby
Upon leaving Si Satchanalai, two other UNESCO monuments are to be discovered in the vicinity: the historical park of Sukothai and the historical park of Kamphaeng Phet.
