Thailand

With its richly sculpted sanctuary towers, Prasat Hin Phimai, considered the largest Khmer temple in Thailand, delights lovers of ancient stones in the northeastern region. Focus.

Muang Phimai faithfully recalls the time when it was a major administrative and commercial center of the Khmer Empire. The Prasat Hin Phimai temple, completed towards the end of the 11th century, is the legacy of this venerable civilization. The buildings of stone and red sandstone betray Hindu influence. Inside, sculptures of meditating Buddhas alternate with the celestial dance of Shiva or the epic scenes of the Ramayana. The magic begins with a boat ride on the Mun River, the waterway used by religious leaders, princes, and traders from Angkor to cross the Siamese border. When you head to Phimai, you won't just discover any Khmer temples. Prasat Hin Phimai is the most prominent testament to Khmer architecture in the Land of Smiles. It's one of the places to absolutely see and visit on a cultural trip to Isaan.

History of the temple foundation

Isaan was annexed by the Khmer Empire around the year 1000. To establish the legitimacy of his power, Rajendravarman II decided to propagate the Deveraja cult. Noting that his subjects were fervent worshipers of Shiva, he made them believe that he was the human reincarnation of Shiva himself.

Although the foundation was laid in the early 11th century—the date recorded in the archives—archaeological evidence found on the site contradicts this information. Sanskrit tablets, statues of Hindu gods, and the statue of Shiva mounted on the bull Nandi were made 500 years earlier. Was it to adorn himself with the feathers of the peacock that King Rajendravarman II ordered the erasure of the dates engraved on the stones? Scholars fear that this might be the case.

Nevertheless, it is certain that Prasat Hin Phimai was among the most important religious buildings of the empire. Its location in the city center suggests it, with the imperial road directly linking Phimai to the capital. This certainty becomes even more evident when one notices the numerous similarities between Prasat Hin Phimai and the very famous Angkor complex. The same dimension, the same decorative motifs, and the same three-prang structure are found on both sites. The distinction of the Phimai temple is that it is a Buddhist place of worship built in a typically Hindu style.

Today

Hailed as an invaluable Khmer heritage, Prasat Hin Phimai is a strong symbol of Nakhon Ratchasima province. The monument underwent a restoration project between 1964 and 1969, thanks to the financial support of France and Thailand. Its management is now entrusted to the Royal Department of Fine Arts. In terms of etymology, Prasat Hin Phimai derives its name from the word Vimayapura, which means "city of Vimaya." Today's tourists know it better as Phimai Historical Park. Excavation and excavation work are still ongoing.

Detailed description of the temple

Seen from afar, the complex resembles a trio of mountains ending in lotus flowers. Even an architecture novice would recognize, at first glance, the resemblance to the Angkor archaeological site. The pointed roofs symbolize Mount Meru, the sacred mountain of the Hindus. The façade demonstrates consummate mastery of sandstone, brick, and laterite work.

The exterior

The temple has four gates facing the four cardinal points and is framed by sandstone walls. Enter through the main gate, named "Pratu Chai" or "Victory Gate,"  on the south side, the very one that leads to the grand imperial road. Cross over the bridge of nagas, not forgetting to photograph the superb lions guarding the passage as well as the nagas clinging to the parapets. For the record, these multi-headed serpents usually kept Buddha company during his meditations. The bridge will lead you into the sanctuary enclosure.

The interior

The complex consists of three prangs, or sanctuaries: a main prang, flanked on both sides by two smaller prangs.

The Brahmadat Prang

This square-shaped laterite tower was built on the orders of Jayavarman VII as part of the site's rehabilitation towards the end of the 12th century. It rises halfway up the main tower.

The main prang, or Prataan Prang

Reaching 32 meters in height, the Prataan Prang is undoubtedly the centerpiece of the complex. It was made of white sandstone. Admire the decorations with geometric or floral motifs at the base of the sanctuary, as well as the cosmic dance of Shiva and the incredible adventures of the Hindu gods told on the pediments and cornices. Apart from the sculptural details, notable attractions of the prang include the mandapa and the majestic Buddha seated at the back of the sanctuary, protected from the rain by Mucalinda, the prince of Nagas.

The Daeng Hin Prasat

To the left of the main tower, the Daeng Hin Prasat is built of red sandstone. The credit for the construction goes to King Suryavarman II. Like the tower on the right, it is square in plan and rises to 15 meters in height. Initially, the chapel housed a lingam of Shiva that the residents of Khorat later replaced with idols of Buddha.

Practical information

Opening hours and entrance fees

The Phimai archaeological site is open daily from 7:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Admission is charged: 100 baht for adults and 50 baht for children. The savvy ones will visit the complex at twilight to capture better images.

When to go?

Given the tropical savanna climate prevailing in Isaan, it is best to visit Prasat Hin Phimai between November and February, when temperatures are pleasant and moderate. Bring warm clothes for the night. The worst months to avoid are May, June, July, August, September, and October, as this is the monsoon period.

How to get there?

To our knowledge, there is no direct bus stopping at Phimai Historical Park. The bus picks up passengers at Korat station and drops them off at Phimai station.

So, three options are available to you: either you take the next songthaew to get to the Khmer site; either you rent the services of a motorcycle or a car; or either you hire a vehicle with a driver. The last option is the most convenient and is included in your travels with Sawa'Discovery.

Nearby

Upon leaving the sanctuary, three other monuments are worth visiting in the town of Phimai:

• The Phimai National Museum;
• The giant Banyan forest;
• The Phnom Wan Prasat.