Thailand

Heritage of Khmer art: the stone and pink sandstone mountain temples of Wat Mahathat dominate the historic district of Ayutthaya. A favorite for all visitors!

Are you traveling to Ayutthaya soon? Glorious royal capital and spiritual center of Siam, after the collapse of Sukothai, the old city is full of Khmer ruins. On a small island, halfway between Chi Kun Road and Naresuan Road, stands Wat Mahathat, a Khmer temple like no other.

Over the centuries, the face of the temple has changed, and visitors will no longer find it in its former splendor. Imagine the royal procession when the king and his wife passed through the main gate, escorted by the crown prince, other nobles, bishops, and the highest dignitaries of the kingdom, riding richly decorated elephants and horses! Envision the annual offering rituals through which the king hoped to gain the favor of the Buddha!

Time has taken its toll on the building. Nevertheless, splendid ruins remain, such as the central prang with its elevated base, the decapitated stone Buddhas, and the Buddha head entwined in the roots of a banyan tree. These remnants give a sense of the luxury and grandeur of Ayutthaya, the Venice of the East.

Historical notes

The meaning of Wat Mahathat can be rendered as "sanctuary of the great relic." Somewhat pretentious though it may be, the name is aptly chosen because relics of the Buddha were once housed there. The construction began in 1374, during the reign of Borommaracha I, the third ruler of Ayutthaya. After his death, Ramesuan, the nephew of the late king who succeeded him on the throne, continued the work.

At the height of the kingdom, the sanctuary of the great relic enjoyed special status. Its proximity to the Grand Palace, the Royal Lion Gable, is proof of this. The presence of a Buddha relic kept in a precious casket also attests to this. Important events took place there, such as the Kathina festival.

Some Europeans praised the splendor of Wat Mahathat in their travel memoirs. Van Vliet, a Dutch merchant from the 17th century, tells us that "about six to seven thousand people attended the royal procession […] A grand retinue followed the nobles. Troops of musicians played the flute, horn, trombone, and drum, and the instrumental arrangement was very melodious." Jacques de Coutre, meanwhile, reported details of the temple's architecture in 1595: "Each of the prangs was topped with a very high tower made of stone masonry and brick. The towers were plated with gold from the top to the middle and rested on a wide courtyard paved with bricks. Ponds were arranged at the four ends of the courtyard, and many trees grew along the water's edge." According to the same author, the monastery of the great relic was among the four most important monasteries in the kingdom.

Unfortunately, Wat Mahathat was not spared when the Burmese sacked and burned the city in 1767.

Today

The ancient city of Ayutthaya boasts more than 400 temples, and it is very easy for foreigners to get lost there. Wat Mahathat stands out in more ways than one. The supreme patriarch of Buddhism once resided there. The holy relics of the Buddha, encased in a golden urn, were hidden there. There, too, were held the grand royal festivities, as the monastery is located next to the Grand Palace. As recently as 1935, the Thai Department of Fine Arts classified it as a national historical monument. UNESCO recognition came in 1991 when the Ayutthaya historical park joined the list of world heritage sites. If you want to see the best of Ayutthaya, a visit to the temple of the great relic is essential.

Tour of the Buddhist Temple

More than just a temple, Wat Mahathat was designed as a vast religious complex. It lost its majesty following the Burmese attacks. The ruins that can be admired today date from a more recent period, ranging from the late 17th century to the 18th century.

Upon entering the temple compound, three buildings immediately catch the eye:

The central prang

This sugary structure allegorically represents Mount Meru, the sacred abode of the gods, according to Hindu mythology. Originally, its height exceeded 40 meters. Four smaller prangs flank it on all sides, resembling the oceans surrounding the earth. The prang held firm for several years after the city was taken by the Burmese in 1767 before completely collapsing in 1911. Since then, it has not been restored. From the mountain temple of yesteryear, only the square platform and the four golden stairs have survived. Keep an eye out for the Buddha images that adorn the galleries.

The Viharn Luang

Just to the right of the main prang, admire the rectangular vihara, supported by two rows of pillars. It is 40 meters long and 20 meters wide. This is where the monks gathered for prayers and meditation exercises.

The ubosot

To the left of the prang stands the ordination hall, where young monks publicly take their vows. Eight fine stone boundary markers delineate the limits of the sacred chamber. According to historians, they date back to the early Ayutthaya period.

Apart from these three structures, other remarkable ruins, such as stupas and pavilions, are scattered all around. Informed tourists will be delighted to study the mural paintings of the northwest prang, the Bayon-style Buddhas within the gallery, or the Buddha head engulfed in a banyan tree.

Practical information

Opening hours and prices

The entrance fee is set at 50 baht per person (1.4 euros). The temple is open from Monday to Sunday between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m..

Nearby attractions

Did you enjoy your visit to Wat Mahathat? Not far away, other places of interest are worth a look:

• The Chao Sam Phraya National Museum, which displays period objects and artistic pieces in the Ayutthaya style, which the Burmese could not plunder;
• Wat Phra Si Sanphet, undoubtedly the most beautiful and majestic Khmer temple in the city;
• Wat Yai Chai Mongkon, one of the very first temples of Ayutthaya;
• The Ayuttaya historical park.