Thailand

Located 3 kilometers southeast of Ayutthaya's historic island, Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon captivates all who visit with its monumental stupa, sumptuous murals, and restored Buddha sculptures that evoke the glory days of a bygone empire.

Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon, an architectural gem of Ayutthaya

Ayutthaya holds a distinctive advantage over other Thai destinations due to its Khmer art heritage. During your next journey, a must-see is Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon, one of the most stunning ruins of the royal capital. Dating back over 600 years, this Buddhist sanctuary witnessed the early days of the Ayutthaya Kingdom. Its renown stems notably from the elephant-back battle between Ayutthaya's ruler, King Naresuan, and Burma's Crown Prince Mingyi Swa, commemorated by the iconic central stupa. Majestic and visible from all corners of the city, it serves as a prominent landmark. Amidst the ruins of chapels, decapitated Buddha images, and bare brick columns, visitors are transported to another era.

A brief history

Literally translating to "The Great Monastery of Auspicious Victory," Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon was founded in 1356 by King Ramathibodi I, the kingdom's founder and first ruler of Ayutthaya. Historical records attest to the monastery's secular purpose; it was built upon the deaths of two of King Ramathibodi I's sons from cholera. Ramathibodi erected a stupa and chapel in their memory, naming the structure Wat Pa Kaeo, or "Crystal Forest Sanctuary," after one of the deceased princes.

Over centuries, the sanctuary played a significant religious and political role, housing Sangha Buddhist monks who garnered favor with the monarchy. Their leader attained the title of Supreme Patriarch of Buddhism. The sanctuary's history is particularly marked by the epic Elephant Battle in 1592, where King Naresuan triumphed over the Burmese prince in singular combat, securing victory over the Burmese army. Upon his return to the palace, the king rebuked his senior officers, who had prevented him and his brother from joining the battle. A death sentence nearly followed, averted only by the patriarch's plea for clemency, which the king eventually granted.

Soon after, in a gesture of triumph, an immense chedi was constructed to commemorate his victory.

Today

Despite being pillaged in 1767 during Burma's conquest of Ayutthaya, restoration efforts by the Fine Arts Department in the latter half of the 20th century preserved the notable ruins of Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon, a testament to Ayutthaya's past grandeur. Visitors will find a prime example of early Kingdom architecture.

A tour of the ruined temple

The monastery's grounds are dominated by an elevated platform supporting a sprawling chedi, standing 196 feet tall and visible from the eastern part of the city. Standing at the base of this monument evokes deep emotion, reflecting on the site of a tumultuous battle six centuries ago. The chedi's bell-shaped form is surrounded by four satellite chedis.

Visitors can ascend to the upper dome via the eastern gate staircase, where a small cell houses Buddha relics.

The row of Buddha statues along the wall is equally magnificent. The monastery's brick walls are partially destroyed, with seated Buddhas resting on decorative pedestals, left hand on the knee and right hand touching the ground in the earth-touching gesture against Mara. However, these statues are contemporary, contrasting with the complex's older buildings.

The Ordination Hall

Heading north, visitors find the ubosot, the temple's most sacred site. Ravaged by the Burmese in 1757, it was fully restored in 1979. Only the brick walls and floorboards of the original building survived. The hall's main attraction is the mural depicting the Songkram Yuddhahatthi, the historic battle between Siam and Burma, where King Naresuan defeated the Burmese prince. Scenes are vividly portrayed, with scattered bodies on the battlefield, two elephants facing off, and soldiers in red and blue uniforms engaged in combat.

The main Vihara

To the left of the giant, bell-shaped chedi stands the main vihara, or what remains of it. Only the foundations have survived. At the rear of the vihara, linger at the statue of Gautama, teaching Sariputta and Mahamogallana, his two faithful disciples.

The reclining Buddha

Kudos to the larger-than-life Buddha reclining in the ruins of the Phra Phuttha Saiyat vihara! This 49-foot reclining Buddha, draped in an orange robe, gazes eastward, symbolizing the peaceful anticipation of nirvana. Buddhist devotees occasionally pay homage here, adorning the idol's feet with gold leaves.

In addition to its main structures, medium-sized chedis flank both sides of the sanctuary, along with private residences for monks.

Practical information

Admission and opening hours

Admission to the historic sanctuary is 20 baht, with opening hours from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily.

Nearby tourist sites

Ayutthaya hosts numerous remarkable ruins. Apart from Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon, you'll certainly enjoy visiting Wat Mahathat, Wat Lokaya Sutha, Wat Ratchaburana, and Wat Phra Sri Sanphet, all located within the historical park.