Thailand

A Buddhist temple from the 19th century, Wat Chom Sawan is a treasure of Burmese art with its gleaming teak wood facade and marble and ivory statues, worth visiting while in Phrae province.

While Northern Thailand boasts countless pagodas and monasteries, each is distinct in its own way. Wat Chom Sawan, located in the Thung Kwao sub-district, 10 kilometers from Phrae, stands out for its unusual architecture. The wood gives the building a dignified appearance, completely clad in it, excluding any other construction material. The multi-tiered roofs are equally remarkable. The Buddhist monastery is designed in the Thai Yai style, an ethnic group from Burma who settled in Phrae in the late 19th century for teak trade. Let's be honest: Wat Chom Sawan may not be the most spectacular monument Phrae has to offer, but it testifies to the artistic expression of the Shan people, whereas most temples in the area reflect Lanna style.

History

The temple was completed in 1894, during the reign of King Rama V. At the time, teak was the "green gold" of Northern Thailand. Groups of merchants from the Shan State of Myanmar immigrated to Phrae in search of a better life, employed by the East Asia Company in the teak industry. When profits were abundant, the Shan agreed to build a monastery. The idea came from two respected leaders of the tribe, named Hoi Kanti and Kham Ong. The building was constructed entirely of indigenous wood. Unfortunately, a revolt broke out a few years later, and the temple was stripped of its treasures. It was refurbished once the rebels were brought under control. Most of the finer structures of the temple date from 1910 to 1912. The embellishment works were accomplished through collaboration between Jong Nanta, the leader of the British company, and Mae Thao Kui, the chief's daughter.

Today

As recently as 1990, the small teak wood sanctuary was listed as a national monument in Thailand. Let's be honest: Wat Chom Sawan is not a major tourist attraction in Phrae. But if you have enough time, a visit is worthwhile simply to admire the craftsmanship of the Shan builders, appreciate their skilled wood art, and glimpse the distinctive features of Burmese architecture and sculpture.

Visiting the Buddhist Sanctuary

The main attractions of the temple include the vihara, the stupa, and the ivory Buddhas. The monastic quarters.

The vihara, designed according to Thai construction codes, is renowned for its unique layout rather than the decorative motifs typically found in other viharas in the country. The vihara plan is organized into two levels: a first hall framed by lateral columns, and a central second hall surrounded by checkered columns. The highlight of the architecture is undoubtedly the pointed arch entrance gate bordered by two vaults overhanging stairs. A refined roof emphasizes the gables of the arched gate. Admire the juxtaposed square surfaces on five stories, suggesting the well-being of the soul emancipated from earthly desires. The topmost roof level is capped with a multi-tiered metal umbrella.

Upon entering, you will discover Luang Pho San, the temple's main Buddha, seated in a lotus position, subduing the demon Mara. Like the famous Buddha of Phitsanulok, he wears a flame halo on his chest. Its uniqueness lies in being made of lacquered and varnished bamboo fibers.

The second attraction is the Buddha, placed inside a flower-adorned niche. A crowd of devotees prays, meditates, and burns incense at the idol's feet. The niche is carved into the wall of a brick stupa located southeast of the vihara. Admire the characteristic ornamental umbrella crowning the golden pinnacle of the stupa. It is called hti, a distinctive feature of Burmese stupas and pagodas.

The small museum inside the vihara is only worth a visit if you are accompanied by children.

Practical information

Prices and opening hours

Visitor hours are from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. Admission is 20 baht (€0.56) for foreigners; free entry for Thais.

The temple is wheelchair-accessible.

How to get there

The city of Phrae is an hour and a half flight from Bangkok. At least two direct flights per day serve Phrae Airport from Don Muang International Airport. Many taxis are stationed in the small airport hall. They will drop you off in the city center for 100 baht (€2.8).

Identifying the temple is easy, as it is located just one kilometer from the City Palace along the main 101 road. To get there, it's easiest to rent a car, motorbike, or bicycle from local accommodations. Tuk-tuks are not very common in this part of Thailand.

Nearby attractions

Apart from Wat Chom Sawan, other sacred places worth your attention in downtown Phrae include:

• Wat Sa Bo Kaeo, another Burmese-style sanctuary, located 500 meters from the previous one;
• Wat Luang, the most famous Buddhist monument in Phrae;
• Wat Phrabat Ming Muang Worawihan.