Thailand
Perched atop Doi Ang Khang, Ban Nor Lae, home to the Palaung tribe, offers a rural retreat far from civilization, just a few hours' drive from Chiang Mai.
Ban Nor Lae, a tranquil village amidst tea plantations
On the road to Doi Ang Khang, a well-known mountain north of Chiang Mai, lies Ban Nor Lae, a small village that has preserved its authentic charm. The verdant route leading there is lined with rice fields, tea bushes, and strawberry patches dotting the hillsides. Rustic wooden huts house the Palaung tribe, providing a unique viewpoint overlooking Myanmar.
On the return journey, a stop at the Ang Khang Royal Agricultural Station offers a botanical escape. Visits to nearby localities such as Ban Khum and Khop Dong allow for purchasing embroidery items that support these tribal communities.
Village history
Situated within the Golden Triangle, Ban Nor Lae was once associated with opium cultivation, sustaining local livelihoods. Burmese buyers purchased opium at low prices from local growers and sold it at exorbitant rates, funding military conflicts.
Around 1959, King Rama VI personally surveyed the village, having to travel by helicopter due to bandit-infested mountain roads. To address security concerns, Rama VI established an agricultural research station aimed at introducing new crops resilient to the mountainous climate. Various flowers, vegetables, and fruit trees were tested.
The project proved successful. By adopting high-yield varieties, mountain tribes achieved better harvests and increased income. Opium poppy cultivation was phased out, restoring peace.
Today
Away from Chiang Mai's tourist hustle, Ban Nor Lae exudes tranquility. Inhabited by the Palaung ethnic group, who migrated to these hills from Myanmar, visitor numbers are low due to Doi Ang Khang's isolation, adding to the village's allure. Tradition permeates daily life, offering an immersive experience into local culture.
Two hours suffice to explore Ban Nor Lae
Visiting Ban Nor Lae
Three ethnic villages are nestled in the mountains: Ban Nor Lae, Ban Khum, and Khop Dong. Ban Nor Lae is the most remote of the three, facing Myanmar in the northwest of Thailand.
A few kilometers before entering the village, the Ang Khang Royal Agricultural Station invites a brief stop. Here, winter crops are grown as experimental trials. Orchards boast plums, raspberries, strawberries, persimmons, and various vegetables, buffering economic losses from opium. With its floral beauty and cool winters, the station aptly earns its nickname "Little Switzerland of Thailand."
Upon arrival in Ban Nor Lae, the climate's mildness immediately strikes visitors—around 16°C year-round, a stark contrast to Thailand's heat. The community's conservatism is equally notable; the Palaung wear brightly colored traditional attire, predominantly speak their tribal language rather than Thai, and uphold Buddhist beliefs with rigorously observed periodic festivals.
Strolls through tea plantations are a highlight, witnessing farmers harvest leaves seasonally. Tea gardens segue into cornfields, coffee plantations, and sweet potato farms. Facing fertility challenges, the Palaung practice crop rotation, avoiding costly fertilizers and reducing operational expenses. After an agriculture lesson, indulge in local delicacies; grilled sweet potatoes are a favorite treat!
On the return journey, a detour to strawberry orchards beckons, offering whole strawberries or fresh juice. Handicrafts such as woven bags, wicker hats, and intricately braided jewelry are also available. Beyond lies a scenic view of Myanmar, with Ban Nor Lae nestled amidst lush greenery.
Practical information
Best time to visit
Ban Nor Lae is best visited during winter and spring, from November to April, when clear skies guarantee spectacular views for photographers.
Getting there
To reach the village, transportation options include car or songthaew. By car, take Highway 107 from Chiang Mai towards Fang. After traveling 137 km to Mae Kha market, turn left at a road junction and continue straight for 25 km. Look for signs directing towards Doi Ang Khang; follow this trail to reach Ban Nor Lae at its end. If unsure, ask locals for directions.
On-site activities
Aside from exploring the mountain tribe, the journey to Ban Nor Lae itself is an attraction. Mountain trails are ideal for climbing, quad biking, and mountain biking.
