Thailand

Pleasantly perched on a hill, the town of Mae Salong in Chiang Rai, a province in northern Thailand, resembles a future tourist resort. The point.

The little Switzerland of Thailand has not undeservedly earned its nickname. This is how tourists see Mae Salong, unaware of the town's terrible and painful past. It was here that the Kuomintang rebel soldiers took refuge. Here were the henchmen hired by the Thai government to suppress communism. Here was the scene of the criminal opium trade. Since the 1990s, Mae Salong's revival has been evident in many ways. Poppy fields have given way to cherry and coffee trees, and tea production is renowned. Monuments and museums flourish in the streets, such as the Martyrs Memorial Museum, which traces the city's Chinese origins. Here is a mountain resort blending history, architecture, agricultural know-how, and colorful festivals. Little Switzerland is a wonderfully fitting name.

Notes from the past

The town's birth dates back to the late 1950s. The resonance of Mandarin and Burmese in the shopping galleries immediately betrays their foreign origin. Mae Salong's history is closely intertwined with that of China and Burma, beginning after the Chinese Civil War and continuing with twists and turns during the Korean War.

When the Communist Party led by Mao Zedong took control of China in October 1949, after three years of civil war, the Nationalist troops of the Kuomintang (KMT) found it difficult to accept their defeat. Some regiments of the 93rd Division opted to flee rather than face a humiliating surrender. Crossing the Yunnan border, they immigrated to Myanmar and northern Thailand. Thus was born Mae Salong, a charming village nestled in the rocky hills of Daen Lao, a mountain range in Chiang Rai. Its founder was General Tuan Schi-Wen.

If Thailand granted asylum to KMT soldiers, it was with strings attached. They were hired as mercenaries to fight communist riots on Thai territory and carry out espionage missions in China during the Korean War. In return, the soldiers demanded Thai citizenship for themselves and their families and insisted on being supplied with weapons to regain power in the Shan State of Myanmar. This was generously granted by the United States and Thailand.

Until the mid-1980s, Mae Salong's inhabitants lived primarily on opium. The village was part of the Golden Triangle, a region notorious for drug trafficking and insecurity. Indeed, the KMT general encouraged large-scale poppy cultivation to finance military operations.

Today : a thriving agricultural village

Mae Salong has long left behind its sad fate as a refugee camp. These past two decades have seen a climate of joy and carefreeness replace the long years of terror. The architectural heritage of the past century complements the charm of a wooded and flowery rural region. If you happen to hear the name Santikhiri, know that it is the new name for Mae Salong.

Above Doi Mae Salong mountain, on the road between Chiang Rai and Mae Sai, visitors will find the resort. As part of the Mae Fa Luang district, it combines the geographical, historical, and cultural aspects of the Golden Triangle while being an extraordinary agricultural village. Eight hundred tons of tea are produced here annually, making Santikhiri the province's leading tea supplier. Horticulture is booming, especially plum and cherry trees, which have valuable economic and touristic value. This is just a taste: come and discover for yourself by dedicating a day or two to exploring the small mountain town of Mae Salong.

Visiting Mae Salong

Historical and religious heritage

The Martyr's Memorial Hall, or Martyrs Memorial Museum

Located south of the village, the museum pays tribute to the KMT soldiers who shed their blood for Thailand during communist uprisings.

Three buildings are to be seen: important dates in KMT history are exhibited in the first room; a temple dedicated to the martyr fighters awaits visitors in the central hall. The last room sheds light on the city's spectacular progress since the 1990s.

General Tuan's cemetery

Visitors will appreciate paying their respects at this tomb, if only to remember the revered leader of the KMT who built the village. The tomb stands on a rocky hillock overlooking the main bazaar. From there, one can take in the view of the pretty farmhouses drowned in a sea of greenery.

Phra Boromathat stupa

The Queen Mother, in whose honor the stupa was erected, was named Srinagarindra. The monument's asset lies in its mountainous setting: you gain height and enjoy a clear view of the landscapes of Burma.

Cultural heritage

In the hills, tea and coffee estates succeed one another endlessly. A variety of Chinese-origin tea grows everywhere: "oolong," which is both green gold and the pride of the region. To learn the secrets of its production, tourists must venture into the high altitudes. Harvesting takes place between January and February, a period of excitement, intense labor, and happiness. Only an educational and gustatory approach will allow you to appreciate all the riches of this vernacular heritage.

Tribal heritage

A walk through the tea plantations naturally involves an incursion into tribal communities. Indeed, Burmese ethnic minorities have settled in the highlands: the Akha, the Lisu, the Hmong, etc. It is clear that a conservative mentality dominates there, judging by the costumes, jewelry, modest bamboo huts, and slash-and-burn agriculture. Possibility to witness a shamanic ritual.

The cherry blossom festival

A joyful peasant festival deserves to spend your year-end holidays in Mae Salong. Every year, the village celebrates the cherry blossom season between December 28 and January 2. Six days of agricultural and craft fairs, street entertainment, and beauty contests. The walk is magical at this time, when the sakura cherry blossoms turn bright pink. And that's not all. It is during this festival that the traditions of the hill tribes are honored.

Best time to go

Perched in the hills, Mae Salong enjoys an alpine climate. Cold and humidity are more pronounced in central Thailand and the southern islands. You should come between December and March, a period when the city experiences the lowest rainfall. That said, the choice of date is dictated by the kind of experience you would like to have on site. To see the tea leaf harvest and roasting, plan your departure for late January or February. On the other hand, December is ideal for contemplating the blooming cherry blossoms. Warm clothing is required.

How to get to Mae Salong?

Bus services can take you to Mae Salong from Chiang Rai and Tha Thon.

If the tourist is leaving from Chiang Rai, they must board the next bus to Mae Sai and get off at Pasang. By doing so, they reach the three-way roundabout, where songthaews pick up passengers heading to Mae Salong. The total fare for the trip varies around 475 baht, or the equivalent of 13.3 euros: 0.7 euros for the bus and 12.6 euros for the pick-up.