Thailand

In the high mountains of Doi Ang Khang, the Lahu tribe of Khop Dong has preserved a traditional way of life centered around agriculture, weaving, and animistic beliefs. Here’s an overview:

Visiting Ban Khop Dong, an incredible tribal village lost in the heights of Chiang Mai

Is it the mild climate or its cultural richness that enchants so many visitors to Ban Khop Dong? This mountain village north of Chiang Mai enjoys eternal spring. It is located on the route to Doi Ang Khang, next to Ban Khum and Ban Nor Lae. Its inhabitants resist the allure of the modern world. Wooden huts serve as dwellings. In the mornings, women tend to vegetable and strawberry fields. In the evenings, they engage in basketry and weaving. Piglets roam freely in nature. This simple way of life can surprise European travelers accustomed to the rush of technological advancement. A visit to Khop Dong appeals to couples, families, or solo travelers dreaming of cultural immersion.

History of Ban Khop Dong

Until the early 1920s, the village economy was closely tied to opium. The Lahu people cultivated poppy for opium production, with clandestine trade supporting military operations in China and Burma. During this time, the Burmese Shan State was under military dictatorship, and Chinese communism was emerging. Narcotics traffickers flourished in this unstable environment.

Things changed in 1969 when King Rama IX established an agricultural project station. Its goal was to restore order in the region by banning poppy cultivation and replacing it with other high-value crops. Initially, there were violent confrontations with Chinese and Burmese authorities. However, the farmers persisted in their crop choices. Ban Khop Dong now enjoys peace and security, and villagers can sleep soundly.

Today

Ban Khop Dong is among the secluded tribal villages in the mountains of Chiang Mai. The Doi Ang Khang region sees few foreign tourists due to its remote location away from major roads. Yet, this is all the more reason to visit! The road leading there is in good condition and offers breathtaking landscapes. Whether passing through or opting for a bed and breakfast stay, the experience promises to be enriching. The Lahu people maintain a distinct lifestyle reflected in their attire, housing, livelihoods, and religious beliefs.

The ethnic village of Ban Khop Dong

While not a mandatory stop, Khop Dong village is of interest to those who appreciate the rural life’s simple pleasures. The alpine climate provides respite from summer heat.

Just before reaching Doi Ang Khang, you’ll need to stop at a border checkpoint for inspection. Officers will then allow passage into the mountains. Continuing north past Ban Khum, the district capital of Doi Ang Khang, you'll arrive at Ban Khop Dong, the realm of the Lahu.

The village sits at 1,428 meters above sea level, offering clear views of the valley below and rice paddies. At times, photographers may feel transported to landscapes of Vietnam or China's Yunnan. The cold is more pronounced here. What strikes travelers the most is the development gap between the village below, with its semblance of civilization including cafes, restaurants, and concrete homes, and economically disadvantaged Lahu village. Wooden cottages line the path. Some residents wear traditional tribal attire, especially the elders.

You have the option to explore or stay overnight. Staying with a host family is recommended to experience daily life among the Lahu and delve into their beliefs and cultural traditions. The Lahu believe in ghosts and spirits of nature. If you're fortunate, you might witness a shamanic ritual. Animistic celebrations mark births, plantings, and harvests.

Strolling through plantations is also popular. The Lahu practice multiple subsistence crops. Grinding corn, threshing rice, and herding cattle fill their days. They also collect honey from the forest. In the afternoons, women engage in basket weaving, creating wicker bags, tablecloths, baskets, and intricately braided bracelets. Some may even sell you a necklace or bracelet for a few baht.

Ban Khop Dong is also home to the main school in Doi Ang Khang. The villagers are warm and open-minded, making it difficult to leave them and return to civilization.

Practical information

Best time to visit

Due to its altitude, Ban Khop Dong is significantly cooler than other parts of Thailand. The best time to visit is from November to April when the weather is dry.

How to get there

The mountain road is well-maintained. From Route 107, take a right turn and follow Route 1249 straight to Doi Ang Khang. An alternative route to the Lahu village involves a few detours: leaving the main road through Arunothai via Route 1178, then onto Route 1178 to Ban Khop Dong.

No public buses serve the village. Visitors will need to rent a private vehicle.

Nearby attractions

• Enjoyed your visit to Ban Khop Dong? Nearby points of interest worth exploring include:
• The magnificent garden of the Royal Agricultural Station;
• The villages of Ban Khum and Ban Nor Lae.