Thailand
Nestled at the foot of Doi Ang Khang mountain in northern Chiang Mai, the village of Ban Khum retains its rural charm and traditional allure.
Ban Khum, a haven of folkloric tribes
The pure air, tranquility, and gentle rural landscapes often lure travelers away from downtown Chiang Mai to explore the mountains. Along the road to Doi Ang Fang, Ban Khum delivers on its promises. Renowned for its strawberry plantations, the village has flourished since the Royal Agricultural Station, initiated fifty years ago by His Majesty King Rama IX, eradicated drug trafficking. Burmese tribes sought refuge behind these hills; resisting the allure of globalization, they steadfastly adhere to their beliefs and traditional practices. Exploring local markets, you'll encounter a mix of tribes including Lahu, Karen, and Thai Yai. Depart not without a piece of their craftsmanship, supporting these hill people, many still grappling with poverty.
History of the village
Part of the historical Golden Triangle region, Ban Khum was long associated with criminal opium trafficking. Drug lords ruled the Chiang Mai mountains, cozying up to Burmese and Chinese leaders who relied on opium revenues to fund their militaries. Until the 1930s, the village was awash with poppy fields amid rampant insecurity.
To definitively address the issue, King Bhumibol Adulyadej launched an agricultural research project on-site. The goal was to find plants suited to the mountains' harsh conditions, providing alternative income sources for farmers and compensating for their economic losses upon ceasing opium production. Crop yields met expectations. Ban Khum transformed from a notorious red zone into a prosperous horticultural region, yielding high-value crops.
Today
Three hours' drive from Chiang Mai, Ban Khum serves as the administrative center of Doi Ang Fang and is a renowned tourist destination. Development signs are evident. The village boasts a supermarket, café, guesthouses, and friendly bed-and-breakfasts. There's even an ATM, offering a significantly higher quality of life compared to neighboring towns. Ban Khum is considered a gateway to Doi Ang Fang mountain and its eponymous national park.
Tourist visit to Ban Khum
Upon entering the village, visitors are struck by the mild climate, attributed to its high altitude—over 1,300 meters above sea level. The sun shines brightly, casting golden rays through the foliage.
The Royal Agricultural Station is Ban Khum's number one attraction. Villagers speak highly of it, guides recommend it, and road signs point the way. Under royal patronage, it stands as a regional pride.
Rows of strawberries encircle the hill. Further strolls reveal a variety of vibrant petals: lavenders, rhododendrons, roses, camellias, orchids, and more. The mountain lives up to its nickname, "Thailand's Little Switzerland." If the Thai government wanted to end opium's grip, it couldn't have chosen a better strategy. Initially, farmers were skeptical of crop profitability. They later realized that strawberries, persimmons, plums, and raspberries brought substantial profits, easily eclipsing opium. The cool climate facilitated the introduction of fruits and vegetables typically grown in temperate climates.
Exiting the agricultural research station, head to the local market. Different ethnic groups converge, exchanging in their native tongues. The place buzzes with activity. Lahus and Palaungs sell their handiwork: handbags, bracelets, tapestries, delicate embroideries… There's something for everyone.
Besides Burmese ethnicities, Ban Khum hosts a significant Chinese community. Kuomintang soldiers settled here with their wives and children, fleeing to Thailand when the Communists seized power.
Practical information
Best time to visit
Due to its altitude, Ban Khum enjoys a milder and pleasant climate. Thus, tourist visit periods are broader: between November and April.
How to get there
The village is less than 40 kilometers from Fang by road. From Route 107, take a right onto Route 1249 straight to the mountain. If coming from Chiang Mai, you can reach Ban Khum via Arunothai. Exit Route 107 onto Route 1178, then continue onto Route 1340. Of the two routes, the first is likely simpler. Through your local travel agency, arrange for a chauffeured vehicle easily reaching Ban Khum.
Nearby attractions
Exploring Ban Khum takes about two hours. Beyond, discover ethnic villages like Ban Nor Lae and Ban Khop Dang, situated in the heights of Doi Ang Khang. Ridge trails are also ideal for trekking and mountain biking.
