Thailand
Located along the Mae Klong River, Wat Ban Tham, or the Dragon Temple, stands out as one of the most unusual attractions in Kanchanaburi. Here's why.
Kanchanaburi is home to countless temples and monasteries, but Wat Ban Tham, just south of the city, is not your typical Buddhist monument. Its ambiance feels more like an amusement park than a place of worship. This becomes evident as visitors ascend a red staircase with blue handrails, entering the mouth of a dragon and spiraling through its painted mythological body, finally arriving at Buddha's abode—actually a rocky cave! Not just one, but a dozen caves await inside. Visitors hail Wat Ban Tham as one of Kanchanaburi's most intriguing temples, itself a standout destination in western Thailand. A must-visit during your stay!
Historical notes
The cave temple existed during the Sukhothai Kingdom. Unfortunately, its foundation is poorly documented, relying mostly on legends. Credit for its discovery goes to a wealthy merchant from the city who shared his find with Luang Po Thong, inviting him to stay. Luang was a highly esteemed monk who sought a quiet place away from noise and crowds for meditation. The caves provided the perfect refuge for monastic life.
Luang Po Thong gladly accepted the merchant's invitation and retreated to the cave. Legend has it that one day, he taught a magpie the human language. From then on, a flock of magpies was said to continuously roam around the cave.
A modern monastery was built nearby, where twenty local monks reside, while the historical cave continues to be used for prayers and meditation.
Description of the Temple
Wat Ban Tham is organized into three main parts and various compartments. The first part is the iron staircase, built in a straight line in 1995. This staircase leads you into the dragon's mouth; you then ascend through the dragon's spiral body. Take a close look at the mural paintings depicting Jataka tales. Exiting at the back of the dragon, you reach the entrance to the main cave. This marks the end of the second part. The bravest visitors continue the ascent to the summit, forming the third and final part of the temple. The reward is an incredible view of the river, rice fields, and lush vegetation.
Main attractions of Wat Ban Tham
The metal staircase
The colorful staircase has a playful and amusing aspect. It's hard to resist the fantastic dragon staring at you with its blue eyes and red eyebrows. But if you think the dragon at the entrance is merely there for amusement, think again. Nagas are deeply revered mythological beings in Buddhist religion, serpent-like deities with dragon heads. Nagas accompanied Lord Buddha during his contemplations and guarded the passages between the human and divine worlds.
The Dragon Cave
At the end of the tunnel, visitors enter a vast cave adorned with stalactites and stalagmites. Locally known as Tham Khuha Mangkon Sawan, or the "sanctuary of fertility," inside the cavity, you'll find Luang Po Yai Chinnarat, a solemn Buddha statue believed to have been cast in the 14th century during the Ayutthaya Kingdom. It's an exact replica of Phra Phuttha Chinnarat, the renowned Buddha of Phitsanulok. Modeled after Ayutthaya Buddhas, Luang Po Yai Chinnarat sits in a lotus position, left hand on the knee and right hand touching the ground in the earth-touching mudra, against Mara's army. If you time it right, you may witness the idol bathed in sunlight. Adorable small Buddha statues are scattered around the hall, surprisingly feminine in appearance.
Besides this colossal Buddha, a stalactite placed at the corner of the hall demands attention: it is believed to house the spirit of Bua Kli, one of the wives of Governor Khun Paen, a legendary hero of Kanchanaburi. Bua Kli died giving birth to their child. According to local beliefs, her spirit still haunts the area; couples seeking children or facing fertility issues pay respects at the stalactite, leaving toys, layettes, or children's clothes as offerings in hopes of receiving Bua Kli's blessing.
The Summit
After exploring the fertility sanctuary, visitors ascend the spiral staircase to reach the summit. The climb passes through a medium-sized rocky cave, Buddha images, and a series of small caves converted into meditation rooms. After some effort, you'll reach the top, with its magnificent golden stupa dominating the mountain. However, most visitors aren't drawn to the stupa, its bell tower appearance, or even the two lotus-positioned Buddhas covered by Mucalinda, the king of nagas, with his seven hoods. The reason for the visit lies in the stunning view of the Mae Klong River and surrounding landscapes.
Practical information
Price and opening hours
Free admission. Visitor hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m..
Code of conduct
Decent attire is required to enter the cave and other prayer rooms. Legs and shoulders must be covered.
How to get there
Wat Ban Tham is located on the east bank of Mae Klong, about 9 km from Kanchanaburi. There are no direct buses from downtown to the site. Head to Kanchanaburi Bus Terminal and take the next bus to Tha Muang. From Tha Muang, you'll need to rent private transportation to reach the Dragon Temple. Many local hotels offer car, bicycle, or motorcycle rental services.
Nearby attractions
A few kilometers away, two other pagodas worth visiting are Wat Tham Suea and Wat Tham Khao Noi. Both are situated atop the same hill. It's customary to visit them on a half-day excursion that also includes the Dragon Temple. This excursion can be done by tuk-tuk or private songthaew. Expect to pay between 600 and 800 baht, or around 20 euros.
You may also enjoy a stroll on the Bridge over the River Kwai, infamous for the atrocities committed by Japanese forces during World War II in 1945.
