Thailand
Are you planning a trip to Ratchaburi soon? Don't miss out on the Wat Kanon Nang Yai Museum, an educational and entertaining museum that hosts traditional shadow puppet theaters inspired by the Ramayana epic. It's a must-visit museum.
If you're looking for a family activity in Ratchaburi, make sure to visit the Nang Yai Museum at Wat Kanon. The monastery itself is charming, with its ordination hall dating back to the late Ayutthaya era and a troop of monkeys. However, its highlight lies in the shadow puppet theater, where nang yai, a distinctive Thai theatrical art, is regularly performed. With elaborate lighting effects, leather figurines gracefully animate, much to the delight of spectators. Singing and dancing accompany the pantomime. After the show, you can visit the puppet-making workshop, where finely crafted pieces made from dried buffalo hide are on display. Visiting the Wat Kanon Nang Yai Museum offers an opportunity to explore a traditional theater that will entertain the whole family. If you're tired of temples and Buddhist symbols, this is a chance to see a hidden facet of Thailand.
Historical notes
Nang yai, or shadow puppet theater, appeared in Thailand in the early 15th century. Performances took place on a green lawn or a large town square. A white cloth served as a screen, and puppet shadows were cast using a bonfire. Nowadays, electric lighting provides the effects. The theater's subject matter remains unchanged: characters interpret the epic poem of the Ramayana.
The puppet festival at Wat Kanon was initiated by Luangpu Klom, a former abbot who served during the reign of King Rama V. Luang Klom was a skilled sculptor who began creating leather puppets and animating them for entertainment purposes. He collaborated with the governor's troupe of Ratchaburi and an artist from Ban Pong. The first show was a resounding success. Subsequently, the temple hosted nine other shadow puppet performances until the abbot's death.
Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn, the second daughter of King Rama IX and Queen Sirikit, took the shadow puppet museum under her patronage. Fascinated by the spectacle, she supported Nang Yai as part of a cultural enhancement program. This type of theater deserves preservation to be passed down to future generations; it represents a living art, an intangible heritage that expresses Thailand's soul, identity, and artistic refinement.
Exploring the Sanctuary
Located within Wat Kanon, a beautiful Buddhist temple bordered by the green waters of the Mae Klong River, the museum welcomes visitors. It's situated in Soi Fa village, about ten kilometers from Photharam, in the northeast district of Ratchaburi. Wat Kanon is the only monastery in the country with its own theater.
The puppet show takes place every Saturday, but special performances can be arranged on weekdays upon request. Actors are selected from students at the monastery's school. (Thai wats, besides their religious purpose, can also include meditation centers, massage institutes, and schools.) The show begins with an invocation speech calling upon ancestral spirits to join the festivities and allowing the players to interpret the Ramayana in that exact spot. This is followed by the theater performance itself, divided into several acts: Hanuman Tawai Waen, Sahasa Kumar, the burning of Lankapura, and the battle of Indrajit. The puppet movements are graceful, and the gestures are theater performance itself, divided into several acts: Hanuman Tawai Waen, Sahasa Kumar, the burning of Lankapura, and the battle of Indrajit. the gestures eloquent. The craftsmanship of the figurines is meticulous, and the stage performances are excellent. Sound and light animations, instrumental arrangements, and the melodious voice of the singer enhance the drama. The museum is housed in noble wooden stilt houses. Aside from the theater, don't miss the exhibition on the origins of nang yai and the treasure trove of puppets. The temple boasts no fewer than 313 carved leather puppets.
Practical information
Price and opening hours
The museum is open daily from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. The puppet theater, however, is held every Saturday from 10 a.m. to 11 a.m. Tour groups can request shows on weekdays with prior arrangements. Admission is 2,500 baht per person, or approximately 70 euros.
Dress code
As the museum is located within a Buddhist monastery, appropriate attire is required to enter. Light and revealing clothing that does not fully cover legs and shoulders is deemed disrespectful to the sacred nature of the monastery.
Getting there
To reach the Nang Yai Museum, public buses or private cars can be used. Buses to Photharam pick up passengers at Bangkok's Sai Tai Mai station. Once in Photharam, hire a songthaew or motorcycle to reach the museum. If driving, cross three different highways: Follow Highway 4 connecting Nakhon Pathom to Ban Pong, the northernmost village in the province; upon reaching Bang Phae junction, turn right and follow Highway 3090 straight to Photharam. After crossing the Mae Klong River bridge, continue right onto Highway 3089. After 3 kilometers, keen-eyed tourists will spot Wat Kanon on the right side of the road.
Nearby attractions
After applauding the puppet mime performances, explore other tourist sites in Ratchaburi. Not far from Wat Kanon, three Buddhist temples are worth visiting: Wat Phra Si An, Wat Muang, and Wat Khongkharam, known for their splendid mural frescoes.
