Thailand

Hosting the residence of Thailand's greatest contemporary artist, the Black House—or Baan Dam in Thai—is a mismatched marriage of typical Northern Lanna buildings and eccentric, futuristic real estate. A must-see in Chiang Rai!

Who would expect to find a room shaped like a whale's head? Such was Tawan Duchanee's resting place when passing through Chiang Rai. The Black House, or Maison Noire in French, showcases 40 architectural works where the renowned artist left his mark. The buildings' design blends the unexpected, daring, and extravagant with classic Lanna elegance. You'll either love it or hate it, but Tawan Duchanee's creations are sure to evoke strong emotions. Easily accessible by bus or tuk-tuk from downtown Chiang Rai, the Black House is an unmissable site for architecture enthusiasts or curious tourists eager to learn about the father of Thai modern art.

Biography of Tawan Duchanee, a multifaceted character

Born in Chiang Rai in 1939, Tawan Duchanee developed a passion for drawing at a young age, leading him to study fine arts in Bangkok and Amsterdam. He simultaneously painted, sculpted, and created architectural works. Buddhist mythology was his favorite theme. Influenced by surrealism, Tawan Duchanee's style diverged from conventional norms. Many conservative Thais accused him of dishonoring Buddhism, even vandalizing or damaging his works. Ironically, it was these controversial paintings that brought the artist international fame. Duchanee's reputation is firmly established today, with several Thai embassies and consulates displaying his paintings. The Black House is considered Tawan Duchanee's masterpiece as an architect. He lived there in his later years and passed away at age 74 due to renal failure.

The Tawan Duchanee Museum

The Black House serves as a museum, art gallery, and former residence. Despite unreliable statistics, it undoubtedly ranks among Chiang Rai's most visited tourist sites, alongside the White Temple. While the White Temple embodies the ideal of Buddhist purity and perfection, the Black House conveys a dark, melancholic realism, sometimes tinged with a sadistic tone. Exploring the Black House will reveal stark aesthetic differences between traditional Lanna buildings and innovative, avant-garde constructions.

Must-see attractions in the museum

The Tawan Duchanee Museum is located a few kilometers from Chiang Rai town. Unfortunately, most buildings are not open to the public as they serve as prayer or meditation halls for the royal family. However, you can admire their exteriors, and the beautiful tropical garden invites leisurely strolls.

Near the entrance stands the museum's most important building. With monumental doors, polished teak wood walls, and a multi-level roof resembling Chinese junk, it initially resembles a Lanna sanctuary. However, the interior reveals a different scene: a white bust self-portrait of the artist adorned with numerous mythical creatures on his chest. Nearby, admire the black obsidian statuette in a silver basin. Other curiosities include intricately carved pillars, thrones made from animal horns and fur, oversized screens, and tables. Noteworthy is the giant serpent running along the table, creating a unique table runner. Another table is adorned with crocodile skins on one end.

The Sanctuary Hall is just a taste of the surprises awaiting you as you explore the rest of the museum. Here are some highlights:

• Sculptures at the entrance gate: a labyrinth of images featuring animal and demonic figures, including an eagle-headed penis;
• Two large canvases by the artist (in the Sanctuary Hall);
• White domes: Tawan Duchanee reimagined traditional pagoda and stupa styles. Historically, these structures housed the ashes of royalty or relics of Buddha. Instead of the usual spire-topped towers, Duchanee designed stupas resembling teepees, reminiscent of Native American sweat lodges. The stupas' facades are adorned with street art graffiti. Of particular interest is the stupa covered in a myriad of eyes, symbolizing Buddha's attainment of perfect knowledge.
• The Hornbill House: resembling a large marine mammal, this building cannot be missed in the garden. Its small, round windows resemble ship portholes. Ever wonder about its function? It was Duchanee's residence when he stayed in his hometown.
• Gallery after gallery, the museum's exhibitions prominently feature skulls, buffalo horns, and fur. The theme of death is pervasive. The interpretation of these macabre objects is clear: during his travels, Buddha witnessed disease, hunger, destitution, violence, and death, the principal expressions of human suffering. Many phallic representations criticize desires, lust, and sexual incontinence.

Practical information

Opening hours and admission prices

The museum is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is 80 baht, approximately €2.24.

When is the best time to visit?

In Chiang Rai, the peak tourist season is from December to February. The skies are clear, and temperatures are pleasant. This is the ideal time to visit the Black House.

How to get there?

For a budget-friendly trip to the Tawan Duchanee Museum, tourists can choose between public buses or tuk-tuks.

• By public bus

Head to the old Chiang Rai bus station, near the night bazaar. Look for Terminal No. 5, where buses to Mae Sai pick up passengers. Board one and ask the driver to drop you off at Baan Dam. These buses are identified by their green bodies. Price: 18 baht (€0.5) per person.

• By tuk-tuk

Faster but more expensive, the tuk-tuk is also an option to reach Baan Dam from Chiang Rai. The fare ranges from 300 to 500 baht (€8.4 to €14). Negotiating is common practice, so feel free to discuss the price.

Nearby…

After visiting the Black House, continue your journey by heading to the White Temple (Wat Rong Khun), a stunning structure embedded with glass shards, symbolizing the image of paradise. Local hotels typically include these two cultural sites in their group tours. Alternatively, explore the Blue Temple or Wat Huay Pla Kang.