Thailand
For your next trip to Central Thailand, consider visiting the royal palace of Sanam Chandra, an architectural gem in Nakhom Pathom.
Tourism in Nakhom Pathom isn't just about the Phra Pathom Chedi, which holds the title of the world's tallest stupa. Make your way to the royal palace of Sanam Chandra, adjacent to Silpakorn University, a complex that stands out for its distinct décor and artistic spirit. This dreamlike castle is steeped in the memories of Rama VI, who frequented it during his summer vacations, as evidenced by the posthumous statue of JarLet, Rama VI's pet dog, and the private quarters where the leader indulged in literary pursuits. The shaded green gardens, authentic architecture of the buildings, and delicate murals invite leisurely strolls, offering a glimpse into a bygone era of Thailand.
Historical notes
Rama VI was still Crown Prince Vajiravudh when he decided to build this luxurious summer residence. Although he enjoyed the mild climate of this central region, historians cite two primary motives for the construction. Firstly, it served strategic purposes, potentially doubling as a fortified outpost in conflicts with Western powers. The geographical choice of Nakhom Pathom province was deliberate in this regard, elevating the city to secondary capital status. Secondly, Rama VI sought a retreat where he could compose poetry in his leisure time. The estate was purchased near the Sa Nam Chand pond, from which the complex derives its name. Construction began in 1907 and was completed in 1911.
Upon Rama VI's death, the property was bequeathed to the military academy as per his will. It subsequently changed hands several times: temporarily abandoned, converted into an administrative park, and finally placed under the management of Silpakorn University in 1965. As part of campus logistics improvements, some wings of the building were renovated. This institution, renowned for its teachings in art and archaeology, holds sway throughout Thailand.
On November 24, 1982, a commemorative plaque was erected at the palace in honor of King Rama VI, built by local villagers.
Today
Since its opening to the public in 1917 by Rama VI himself, the Sanam Chandra Palace has held a special place in local urban history. In fact, calling it a "palace" is an understatement. The complex houses a variety of residential units: the throne hall, Tap Kwan, Chalee Mongkhon-Assana, Phra Pikkanesh, and Phra Tamnak Tabkaeo. There's even a theater and a music hall within its walls. If time is short, here are the main attractions to prioritize.
Chalee Mongkhon-Assana Residence
A highlight is this building with ochre walls and scarlet tiles, where Rama VI stayed during his visits to Nakhon Pathom. A visit is worthwhile not only to learn about the history but also about Jarlet, the king's pet, after whom the building is named. The architecture blends Renaissance elegance with the modest masonry of British half-timbered houses, adapted for the regional climate. The upper part houses an office and a bedroom, where Rama VI found solace for writing, away from the burdens of royalty. Here, he composed his most famous literary works: Thao Saen Pom and a translation of Romeo and Juliet. With its picturesque setting surrounded by lawns, Chalee Mongkhon is an ideal retreat for inspiration.
Jarlet Statue (Ya-Lei)
Facing the private residence stands the copper statue of Ya-Lei, Rama VI's beloved dog, whom the king cherished as a close friend rather than a mere pet. Rama VI first encountered Ya-Lei during an inspection at Nakhom Pathom prison. Deeply saddened by the dog's assassination, the king commemorated Ya-Lei with a poem engraved on the epitaph at the base of the memorial. Considering the grandeur of the memorial, one might think a royal dog lived better than common folk.
Phra Pikkanesh
This sanctuary houses a statue of Ganesh and is the most sacred place within the Sanam Chandra Palace. Hindus still gather here to offer prayers to the deity.
Phra Tamnak Tabkaeo
Inside, art enthusiasts can admire a slate painting of King Rama VI.
Tap Kwan Residence
Visitors leaving the throne hall are transported to the rustic ambiance of Tap Kwan. The residence exudes charm with its eight traditional cabins connected by verandas, set amidst wooded cover. Tap Kwan showcases the interior of a Thai rural home: a kitchenette, hall, bedrooms, servants' quarters, storage, and an aviary. Thai elements are evident in teakwood walls, apple leaf roofing, and the buildings' orientation towards the four cardinal directions.
Practical information
Opening hours and admission
The museum palace opens daily from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., except on November 25, when a commemorative event for King Rama VI's birthday is held.
Admission is 50 baht, or approximately 1.4 euros per person for foreigners. The ticket counter closes at 3:30 p.m. Keep your ticket, as it's required for entry to buildings.
Group visits require special permission from Silpakorn University.
Getting there
Sanam Chandra Palace is just 2 kilometers from Wat Phra Phatom Chedi, over 100 kilometers west of Bangkok.
From Nakhom Phatom, exit through the west gate of Wat Phra Pathom and follow Ratchadamnoen Road.
From Bangkok, take a public bus to Nakhom Phatom. On arrival, you can rent a private car or take a taxi.
Dress code
Visitors are expected to adhere to the dress code applicable in sacred places, avoiding casual wear or attire that exposes legs and shoulders. This rule applies to both sexes.
