Thailand
Caressed by the green waters of the Mekong River, Sam Phan Bok, sometimes called the Grand Canyon of Thailand, attracts adventurers of all ages to the Isaan region. Let's take a closer look.
The "gorge of three thousand holes"… No, Sam Phan Bok didn't earn its name by chance. This natural wonder in northeastern Thailand is actually a collection of rocky dunes on the banks of the Mekong River. Over the centuries, the plateau has been eroded by the force of floods, carving out a myriad of holes in the most peculiar shapes. At sunrise and sunset, the rocks take on romantic hues, with a pale gray nuanced with orange tones. In some places, the cavities give way to formidable reefs housing natural pools. As for the resemblance of the site to the Grand Canyon of Arizona, some affirm it with conviction, while others are more skeptical. In our opinion, only a reconnaissance trip can settle the matter. Between hiking, picnicking, and canoeing on the Mekong, your day at Sam Phan Bok promises to be unforgettable. A must-visit during your next trip to Isaan!
Geological profile
The erosion that causes so much trouble for farmers by degrading arable land is also the creator of prodigious natural masterpieces. Sam Pan Bok, or Sam Phan Bok, is one such example.
The rocks are regularly beaten by the tides. Through erosion, they present shallow fissures resembling honeycomb cells. From May to October, when the rains are at their peak, the rock formations are engulfed by the Mekong. But by the end of December, the water level drops, revealing, over about ten kilometers, layers of stone carved with pockets of water.
Local authorities plan to build a dam on this part of the Mekong. Food security demands it! In a few years, the reservoir dam would be operational to the delight of local fishermen, who would earn more stable incomes, but to the dismay of pleasure boaters.
Today
The Thai Tourism Authority lists Sam Phan Bok as one of the must-see attractions in Thailand. The site is frequented by picnickers and camping enthusiasts. Photographers will also enjoy visiting.
Visiting Sam Phan Bok
The "place of three thousand holes" is administratively connected to Baan Phong Pao, a humble rural village in Pho Sai, Ubon Ratchathani district, south of Isaan. It's about a 2-hour drive from Ubon Ratchathani. The canyon is inseparable from the Mekong River, which shaped it through ebb and flow.
Once there, the eye is dazzled by the rounded and polished rocky outcrops. Children can spend hours counting the scattered holes everywhere. Notice their extravagant aspects: some are heart-shaped, pothole-shaped, or dog-faced, while others resemble the foot of a giant. Some curiously resemble Mickey Mouse. The game aims to spot the rock formations and recognize which familiar figure they remind you of.
For a bit of history, an old superstition says that the holes correspond to magical numbers, and if you can decipher them, you'll have a lucky hand in lotteries and games of chance. Rumor has it that a notable person from the village tried them, and it worked.
In addition to walking, other activities are offered. Indulge in a boating trip on the Mekong. As you peacefully sail on the water, you'll enjoy multiple scenic views of the canyon and observe the comings and goings of canoes as well as fishermen in their daily activities. Continue the tour by exploring the nearby karst caves and natural pools nestled in the cliffs.
Entry to the site is free. But be prepared to spend 300 baht to rent the services of a boat. Don't haggle! The overwhelming majority of boatmen are extremely poor, and they rely on your tolls to feed their families.
Practical information
Best time to go
To plan a trekking tour to Sam Phan Bok, tourists are advised to choose dates between the first and last two months of the year. The weather is dry, and temperatures are cooler during this season. The canyon is not accessible during the monsoon period because the rocky plateaus are flooded by the Mekong River.
Boaters are advised to come early in the morning or towards the end of the evening to visit the canyon. The reason for this recommendation is twofold: firstly, walking among the rocks in a scorching sun can be uncomfortable and tiring. Consider that it's a desert environment, bordered by the Mekong, with no trees or shade plants. Secondly, the play of light and shadow on the rocky crevices is beautiful under the glow of sunrise and sunset. These are the best times to take photos.
How to get there?
Since Sam Phan Bok is a long way from the capital, flying is the most convenient, simple, and fastest way to get there.
From Bangkok, you take a plane to Ubon Ratchathani. Many airlines operate on this route: Nok Air, Lion Air, Vietjet Air, Thai Smile, etc., to name a few. Expect an average flight time of one hour.
Once you've reached the city center of Ubon Ratchathani, you'll need to use private transportation to reach the Grand Canyon of Thailand. There is no direct bus connecting Ratchathani to the latter. Certainly, you can take the public bus to Sam Phan Bok by going to the Pho Sai bus station. But it's more than 20 km away, and the journey may drag on, with frequent stops along the way and a long wait before departure.
Nearby
The excursion to Sam Phan Bok leaves you wanting more. Other qualified natural sites await nearby: venture into the Phu Phan mountains, visit the Khae Song Khon waterfall, or admire the exceptional rock art of the Pha Taem National Park.
