Thailand

Third largest island in Thailand by area, with its 247 km2, Ko Samui is surrounded by 80 smaller islands, of which 6-Pha-Ngan, Ta Loy, Tao, Taen, Ma Ko, and Ta Pao-are also inhabited.

The first inhabitants of Samui were islanders from the island of Hainan in China, whose main resource was coconut plantations for 150 years. The Chinese sanctuary, or saan jao, near the Siam City Bank in Na Thon, the oldest town on the island, still bears a map of Hainan.

That being said, Samui remains a pleasant resort, and some regulars have been visiting for nearly twenty years. The island still offers some of the most enjoyable accommodations in the country and a relaxed atmosphere, which visitors readily embrace, making it even more welcoming.

The influence of Hainan is undoubtedly responsible for Samui's cultural difference from other southern islands. Its inhabitants consider themselves Chao Samui (people of Samui) rather than Thais.

Currently, most hotels, restaurants, bars, and other tourist businesses are owned or managed by Thais from Bangkok or even Europeans, and one must visit the villages to encounter true Chao Samui.

Moreover, the island luxuriates in having its own unique cuisine, based on the omnipresent coconut, which remains the main resource of the Chao Samui, who have been somewhat dispossessed of the coconut plantations along the beaches. Other fruits are also cultivated: durian, rambutan, and langsat.

The population of Koh Samui is mainly concentrated in the port town of Na Thon, on the side of the island facing the mainland, to the west. However, there are still 10 or 11 villages scattered throughout the island.

Samui's beaches

Samui abounds in beaches to explore, with each bay harboring more bungalows. Transportation has improved, so there's no problem going from one beach to another. The Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) has registered 250 accommodations on the island. The best-equipped beaches with accommodations are Chaweng and Lamai, both on the east coast of the island.

Chaweng offers more bungalow "villages" and some hotels for tourists. It's the longest beach, twice the length of Lamai, with the small island of Mat Lang just opposite. Both are bathed in clear turquoise waters, with coral reefs to explore while diving.

Hat Lamai might be more interesting due to the proximity of two villages: Ban Lamai, where the Ban Lamai Cultural Hall is located, sort of a museum of art and popular tradition. Chaweng is the target of upscale development due to the length of its beach. Another advantage of Chaweng and the northern part of Lamai is that they are the only ones with deep enough waters to swim in from October to April.

For more tranquility, choose the beaches on the north, south, and west coasts. Mae Nam, Bo Phut, and Big Buddha border the northern tip. Bo Phut and Big Buddha are part of a bay that encloses Ko Faan (the "Big Buddha Island"). The water isn't as clear as in Chaweng or Lamai, but you feel more secluded, and accommodations are cheaper. Hat Thong Yang, on the west coast, is even more secluded, but the beach isn't as beautiful. At Hat Ang Thong, just north of Na Thon, the beach is rocky but more picturesque.

Waterfalls

In addition to its beaches and picturesque bungalows, Samui offers two waterfalls to visit. Hin Lat Waterfall, 3 km from Na Thon, is worth seeing. You can walk there—walk 3 km on the main road south of the town and turn left at the hospital. Follow this road for 2 km until you reach the waterfall entrance; from there, it's a half-hour climb to the top.

Na Muang Waterfall, in the center of the island, 10 km south of Na Thon, is more beautiful and a bit less crowded. You can take a songthaew from Na Thon. Songthaews are also available from the beaches of Chaweng and Lamai.

Temples of Koh Samui

Apart from discovering the island's natural wonders, a stay in Koh Samui is also an opportunity to explore its temples. Here are some must-visit ones.

Khao Chedi

This temple, also locally known as "Rattanakosin Chedi," is located in the south of the island. It is perched on a hill that offers a breathtaking view of Bang Kao Bay and the islands of Koh Matsum and Koh Tan. Its charm comes from its white chedi and the numerous white Buddhas it houses.

Wat Phra Yai, or Big Buddha

As its English name suggests, this temple houses a huge golden Buddha statue that is over 12 meters tall. People come here every day to offer offerings to their deity. Interestingly, this gigantic statue was erected in 1972. The site sees its peak visits during the country's cultural and religious events like Songkran or Loy Kratong.

Wat Kuhnaram

This temple is perhaps the most intriguing for foreigners because it houses a mummified monk. His name was Luong Pondaeng, and he died in 1973 in the lotus position. Shortly before his death, he allegedly asked his disciples to cremate his body if it decomposed, but if not, he wanted it to be displayed for all to see so that believers could visually recall Buddha's teachings. Furthermore, if you wish to bring back some souvenirs from your visit to this sanctuary, head to its shop, where Buddhist culture amulets and other objects are sold.

Ang Thong marine National Park

The park itself covers 18 km of islands, along with 84 km of underwater areas. From Ko Samui, day trips can be arranged to the Ang Thong archipelago, 31 kilometers northwest. Tham Bua Bok, a cave with lotus-shaped formations, can also be visited. At least once a month, a two-day excursion is organized, and visitors stay in bungalows on Ko Wua Ta Lap (actually the park's offices). It's also possible to visit independently.

On the northwest coast of the island, Na Thon is the passenger ferry terminal from Surat. Car ferries come from Don Sak and Khanom dock at Ao Thong Yang. If you haven't taken a combined ticket, you'll need to spend some time in Na Thon upon arrival or departure. Likewise, if you've exhausted the pleasures of the beach, you'll find the bustle of a small town in Na Thon.

When to go?

The dry and hot season, from February to the end of June, is the best time to visit Samui. From July to October, it rains occasionally, and from October to January, the winds can be strong. In November, the island receives rain that also waters the eastern coast of Malaysia. Prices soar from December to February, regardless of the weather, as it's the very peak of the tourist season.

Money

There is no problem changing money in Na Thon, Chaweng, or Lamai, where banks provide daily service.

What transportation options are available on Koh Samui?

For getting around the island, you have the choice of songthaews, taximeters, scooters, or rental cars.

Songthaews

These converted pick-up trucks serve as public transportation along the main roads of Koh Samui. They are used as shared taxis. There are no stops; you can get off or on wherever you like. As for the fare, it's negotiated before boarding (expect to pay between 20 baht and 100 baht depending on the length of the journey.)

Scooters

The rental price is around 200 baht per day. For this mode of transportation, it's preferable to have an international driver's license and some experience in riding this type of two-wheeled vehicle.

Car

For comfortable travel, there's nothing better than renting a private vehicle. Expect to pay around 800 baht.

Taximeter

This one is often shunned by tourists because, in most cases, local drivers don't turn on their meters. Moreover, these drivers rarely lower their fare during negotiations.

How to get there?

By plane

Bangkok Airways operates about a dozen daily flights to Koh Samui from Bangkok. The flight takes 1 hour 20 minutes. If all flights are full, you can still go to Surat Thani from Bangkok or many other cities on a Thai Airways or Air Asia plane. From Surat Thani airport, you can take a THAI bus to Koh Samui (via the Don Sak ferry.)

By train

The State Railway of Thailand also offers combined train-bus-boat tickets to Samui from Bangkok.