Thailand

During a journey through the mountains of Doi Mae Salong in Thailand, many travelers visit the sepulcher of General Tuan. Here's a glimpse into this historical site in Chiang Rai.

The Tomb of General Tuan: A Tribute to a Political Figure in Siam

About twenty kilometers from Chiang Rai, the mountainous heights of Doi Mae Salong beckon for a green and historical getaway. It's hard to believe that this tranquil village, where tea is grown on terraces and plums and strawberries are renowned products, was once a hotspot for drug trafficking. Yet, a monument erected atop a hill forcefully reminds us of this past: the tomb of General Tuan Shi-Wen. Here lie the remains of the founder of Mae Salong. Buried here is the courageous soldier who gave his life for Thailand in the fight against communism. General Tuan passed away in 1980, and his tomb stands as a historical monument. It's worth the trip not only for the memorial but also for the picturesque setting. During your next road trip around Chiang Rai, consider visiting the tomb of General Tuan.

History of General Tuan

It all began in 1949. When the Chinese Kuomintang army had to retreat in the face of the triumph of the Communist Party, they found refuge in Mae Salong after roaming the hills of Laos and Burma. General Tuan led the troops of the 93rd Division. Thai authorities generously granted asylum, but with conditions. KMT soldiers never managed to return to a normal life until communist insurgents in Thailand were defeated. During the Vietnam War, some of them were recruited by the CIA as mercenaries. In reward for their good and loyal services, Thai citizenship was granted to them and their families.

The fugitives are now recognized as residents, but how to earn a decent living? General Tuan and his men decided to enter the criminal opium trade. "We must continue to fight the scourge of communism, and to fight, we must have an army, and an army must have weapons, and to procure weapons, money is needed. In these mountains, the only monetary resource is opium," wrote the general in the Weekend Telegraph (1967). The ex-military pressured villagers in Mae Salong to cultivate poppies. The land tax was so burdensome that peasants bent over backwards to increase production. Between 1960 and 1975, Mae Salong was one of the largest drug refineries in the Golden Triangle.

General Tuan passed away in 1980. Atop a hill, a finely decorated pagoda serves as his tomb. After his passing, Mae Salong abandoned poppy cultivation and turned to vegetable and fruit crops. Chinese tea from Mae Salong—oolong—is renowned throughout Thailand.

Visiting the Tomb of Tuan Shi-Wen

Amidst endless rows of tea plantations, General Tuan's tomb stands alone on a hill. A Chinese officer watches over it, handing out incense sticks to pilgrims who come to pay their respects. The tomb resembles the appearance of a Buddhist pagoda. Accessible by a flight of steps, it is a building covered with colonnades and open to the four winds. The sarcophagus is placed at the back of the hall. In front of the sarcophagus are bowls of food, candles, and incense. On the back of the coffin, a portrait of the general hangs on the wall. Photographs of KMT members are displayed here and there.

The road leading to General Tuan's tomb passes through a local market. People of various colors, from different tribes, speaking different languages, mingle there. The Lahu, Karen, and Akha come together to share the latest news and sell their handicrafts.

Practical information

When to go?

The period from November to February is the best time to climb the mountain and pay respects at General Tuan's tomb. The sky is clear, and the temperatures are more bearable. Cherry trees blossom with beautiful pink flowers, making the walk magical.

How to get there?

Since no buses serve the mountain, visitors have two options: the songthaew or a private vehicle.

Other attractions

Along the mountain road, other points of interest are worth exploring:

Sinakarintra Stit, Mahasantikhiri Pagoda

Perched atop Doi Mae Salong, this pagoda is dedicated to the memory of Princess Sinakarindra, the mother of Rama IX. She fought for the rights of the northern Thai hill tribes.

Cultural villages

Tribal communities will gladly offer hospitality in their homes, if only for a brief visit. Resisting the temptations of the modern world, these Burmese ethnic groups have adopted a lifestyle in harmony with the natural environment.

Chinese tea houses and restaurants

Mae Salong is renowned for its authentic atmosphere, derived from its Chinese origins. It's customary to try some authentic Yunnan recipes there.