Thailand

Phitsanulok is a significant historical city in northern Thailand, just a 4-hour train ride from Bangkok. Discover the compelling reasons to visit!

Amidst mass tourism, few destinations have managed to maintain perfect authenticity. Such is not the case with Phitsanulok, a former capital of the Kingdom of Siam, bordering Sukhothai and Laos. Despite the opening of an international airport boosting tourist arrivals, the birthplace of King Naresuan the Great has stayed true to itself: a melting pot of Buddhist temples, a major pilgrimage site for souls seeking enlightenment, and a significant area of natural resources. The Chinnarat Buddha statue is just the cherry on top among the attractions of this timeless city. Don't miss out on a trip to Phitsanulok for an off-the-beaten-path journey in northern Thailand.

History

Historical sources estimate the city's age to be over 600 years old and recount a series of raids and enemy invasions throughout its history. Before coming under Siamese administration, Phitsanulok was a Khmer garrison center. The Angkorians knew it as Song Khwae, which literally means "two rivers." The choice of this name likely stems from the Nan and Khwae Noi rivers, which constituted a strategic crossing point in the northern part of the country.

An important city of Sukhothai

In the 13th century, Bangklanghao, the king of Sukhothai, annexed Phitsanulok and subdued all villages along the Chao Phraya River to the emerging kingdom. From 1238 to 1365, Phitsanulok was a significant city in the eastern part of the kingdom. This period also saw a flurry of construction projects: Wat Chedi Yod Thong and Wat Aranyik bear witness to this.

The royal capital of Ayutthaya

The city of Phitsanulok gained increasing importance in the latter half of the 14th century, when Sukhothai became the vassal state of Ayutthaya, the new political power. In 1463, King Borommatraikolanat of Ayutthaya deemed it appropriate to transfer the royal court to Phitsanulok for geostrategic control, particularly due to threats of rebellion in the north provoked by the neighboring kingdom of Lanna. Portuguese travelers of the time referred to the locality as "the second capital of Ayutthaya," comparing Phitsanulok and Ayutthaya as twin cities. To assert his power, Borommatraikolanat financed the construction of new sanctuaries, such as Wat Ratchanaburana and Wat Nang Phaya. In 1491, when Borom Rachathirat III ascended the throne upon his father's death, he decided to return to Ayutthaya, which regained its status as the capital at the expense of Phitsanulok.

Phitsanulok today

As the provincial capital of Phitsanulok, the city of Phitsanulok is one of Thailand's largest urban areas. The population stands at 106,000 inhabitants, according to a 2007 census.

The destination is lacking in attractions, having not experienced the tremendous revival of Chiang Mai and Ayutthaya. In 1957, a devastating fire ravaged Phitsanulok, reducing most of its monuments to ashes. While reconstruction was prompt, it did not adequately address aesthetic requirements. The only consolation is the religious heritage, which is enough to inspire admiration among tourists. You'll find old temples with intricate and refined architecture, offering a glimpse of Phitsanulok's grandeur during its time as the radiant capital of Ayutthaya. Half a day is enough to explore the highlights of Phitsanulok, including the stupas, the folk museum, and the charming night market.

Must-visit attractions

- Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat

Is it divine protection that explains why the Phra Si Rattana Mahathat temple survived the 1957 fire? Despite skepticism, locals believe it firmly. Renowned throughout Thailand, the sanctuary is the reason for thousands of pilgrims traveling to Phitsanulok. The structure was completed in 1357, but mother-of-pearl inlays were added to the portals in 1756 during a renovation project initiated by Boromakot, the Ayutthaya sovereign of the time. However, it's neither the red ceiling, nor the golden wooden pilasters, nor the mother-of-pearl encrusted doors that captivate visitors at Wat Yai, as the temple is also known. The highlight of the visit is the Chinnarat Buddha inside the building, which receives fervent veneration. To give you an idea, the temple earns no less than €300,000 per year in visitor rights.

Entirely cast in bronze, the statue depicts a Grand Seated Buddha, flanked by two nagas, with the head and chest surrounded by a halo of flame. It is rightfully considered one of the most beautiful representations of the Enlightened One. It's a genuine experience to see devotees burning incense on the altar and offering prayers accompanied by the musical accompaniment of a xylophonist. Don't leave the sanctuary without admiring the Phra Attharot, another Buddha statue that stands 8 meters high.

Apart from the Chinnarat Buddha, the attraction of Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat lies in the grand image hall whose doors are adorned with pearls.

To buy souvenirs or local handicrafts, head to the back of the temple. This part of the site houses many shops selling puppets, paintings,

statues, medicinal plants, masks, and other items.

Outside the temple, food stalls invite you to a small gourmet break while enjoying a panoramic view of the banks of the Nan River.

- Wat Chula Mani

Located about 5 kilometers from the city center, Wat Chula Mani is known as the place where King Borom Trailokanat received monk education before assuming his political duties. The quality and finesse of execution are low compared to the famous Phra Si Rattana Mahathat temple, however, the temple houses many Buddha statues that inherit artistic influences from Sukhothai, Ayutthaya, and Chiang Saen. One of the sculptural gems of the temple is the Luang Pho Phet, an image of Buddha in the lotus position, with eyes adorned with diamonds, which unfortunately have disappeared.

- Wat Chedi Yot Thong

At the heart of Phaya Sua Street, this temple-monastery is recognizable among thousands by its lotus-bud-shaped stupa dating back to the 15th century. It perfectly illustrates the construction techniques characteristic of the Sukhothai era.

- Sergeant Major Thawee folk Museum

To get a clear idea of the indigenous way of life in the 19th and 20th centuries, the folk museum is a good stop. It is located on Wisutkasat Street, right next to the Buddha foundry. This art gallery was created on the initiative of Sergeant Major Thawee, who lent his name to it. The museum's rich collection includes, among other remarkable pieces, kitchen utensils, musical instruments, lacquer chests, looms, and even insect or snake traps. The rudimentary objects on display contrast nicely with today's modern and highly technical world.

Stroll at the night market

The night market is also a popular walking destination for tourists. There's no better place for shopping: souvenirs, clothing, gadgets, snacks, and many other goods. Even if you don't feel like spending, the market is worth a visit for its lively atmosphere and popular festivity.

Visit the bird garden

Bird watchers, both amateurs and professionals, will not be disappointed by stepping into this garden. It is located near the Buddha foundry. Among the species recorded in the garden are, among others, the helmeted hornbill and the pink-necked green pigeon.

Climate

The constant heat and heavy storms don't seem to deter knowledgeable tourists from the historical wonders of Phitsanulok. While temperatures rarely drop below 25°C, rains wreak havoc only during a long season. The peak of heat is recorded in April with an average maximum of 37°C, and the coldest record is in December with an average minimum of 19°C. In short, signs of a tropical savanna climate.

To travel to Phitsanulok with the blessing of the weather, plan your trip between the first quarter and the last two months of the year.

It's best to avoid the months of August and September, when heavy rains rage over the city. Note, however, that the rainy season starts as early as May and lasts until October.

How to get to Phitsanulok?

For getting around the city, there's a wide choice between tuk-tuks, cycle rickshaws, buses, or taxis.

How to get there?

By bus

Phitsanulok is only about six hours by bus from the capital. Many bus lines connect the two cities. The main bus station in Bangkok is at Mo Chit, on Kamphaeng Phet II Road.

By train

For train enthusiasts, train services run between Phitsanulok and Bangkok from Hua Lamphong Station.

By plane

If your wallet agrees, taking a plane is the safest way to travel quickly within the country. The city of Phitsanulok has an airport serving domestic flights. Nok Air, Thai AirAsia, and Thai Lion Air offer flights to Phitsanulok from the capital.

By car

The car will undoubtedly appeal to road trip enthusiasts. Here's the route to follow to reach the city from Bangkok.

Take highway No. 1 that passes through Ayutthaya, then take highway No. 32 towards In Buri. Continue your journey by taking highway No. 11, which leads to Wang Thong. Finally, take highway No. 12, which will take you directly to Phitsanulok.