Thailand

Shared by Laotians and the inhabitants of Isan, the Phi Ta Kon festival, sometimes called the Ghost Festival, attracts thousands of visitors to the northwest of the Land of Smiles. Here's the scoop.

Thais are often considered cheerful and lively people, and travelers in Isan won't tell you otherwise. In this region of the Northeast, in the village of Dan Sai, to be precise, a three-day Thai festival in honor of Buddha enlivens the crowd between March and July. Residents don colorful costumes and ghost disguises. On this occasion, the dead join the living to commemorate the return of Prince Siddhartha after a long journey. Dances, animistic rituals, mask parades, spiritual reflection… Phi Ta Kon is an event not to be missed to experience an authentic journey into Northern Thailand's festival culture.

When and where is the Phi Ta Kon Festival held?

The Phi Ta Kon festival takes place once a year in Dan Sai, a small hill village located in Lan Soei province, a region of Isan bordering Laos. The festival's designation is slightly inaccurate. Phi Ta Kon, or "Ghost Festival," is only the wild dance that opens the festivity. The event as a whole is called Boun Bhavet. It spans three days. The festival's opening date is determined by the lunar calendar, usually falling between March and July.

Beliefs and legends behind the festival

Like all other festivals in Thailand, the Phi Ta Kon festival has its roots in Buddhist tales. It recalls an episode from Buddha's earthly life—known then as Prince Vessantara Jataka—the episode where he departed from his father's kingdom on a long journey. Jataka was the embodiment of benevolence, and the villagers cherished him deeply. Imagine their astonishment when the supposedly deceased prince returned from exile! They sang, they danced, and the commotion was so intense that it woke the dead from their graves.

Phi Ta Kon was initially a ritual celebration of Buddha, where the dead mingled with the living in a fraternal dance. Later, the event became tinged with syncretism, borrowing from the animistic traditions specific to the Loei region. Evidence of this is the invocation of rain or harvest spirits.

Highlights of the Festival

Culture and authenticity enthusiasts will not miss this ghost festival for anything during a circuit in the heart of Isan. The event takes place over three days.

Day 1: The Ghost Festival (Wan Ruam)

This is the most important day of the festival in Thailand. The ghostly dancers arrive in the village, wearing brightly colored trousers and shirts. The masks are adorned with caricatural motifs: bulging eyes, noses hanging below the mouth, and buffalo horns on the head. While traditional dance is a sign of homage to Buddha, it also serves to invoke the spirit of Phra Pa Khut, a revered former Buddhist monk. According to local superstitions, he protects the Mun River, and his blessing ensures good harvests.

The dance continues with a solemn procession to Wat Chai Phon, the village's main sanctuary.

Day 2: Rocket Competition (Rocket Festival)

From the beginning of the day, participants paraded in the most unusual masks. The costumes are made from local materials: steamed sticky rice balls, palm leaves, intricately carved wood, and more. To excite spectators, they attach jingling bells to their belts and display wooden phalluses. These sexual symbols are associated with abundance and fertility.

Folk music accompanies the parade. Then comes the rocket launch to attract the favor of nature's deities. The goal is to bring rain for the upcoming farming season.

Day 3: Sacred Meeting at Wat Chai Phon

The final day of the festival takes on a more solemn tone. The faithful gather at the village temple to pray and listen to the teachings of Buddhist priests.

Practical information

How to get to the Ghost Festival?

Air travel is not the most convenient way to reach Dan Sai. Phitsanulok Airport, which serves Lan Soei province, is a two-hour drive from the village and has only a small number of flights per week. Udon Thani Airport, on the other hand, is a three-hour drive away. It is better to use land transportation. Bus services depart daily to Dan Sai from Phitsanulok Station and Loei Station.

• from Phitsanulok

Dan Sai is 144 kilometers northeast of Phitsanulok. Buses to Dan Sai operate between 12 p.m. and 4 p.m., with two departures per day.

• from Loei

Dan Sai is barely 89.4 km from Loei. There is no direct bus connecting the village to the provincial capital, but buses stop at Dan Sai three or four times a day. The journey takes an hour and a half.

Precautions

Although the Phi Ta Kon festival is not as popular as other Thai festivals, it attracts many Thais. Booking accommodations is essential.

When heading to Lan Soei between March and July, expect unbearable heat. At times, the thermometer reaches 35 °C. Don't forget to bring rain gear if you are traveling in mid-April or the following months.

What to see and do near Dan Sai?

A stay in Dan Sai also invites you to a seductive oenological-themed stroll. For your information, the village is dedicated to wine production. Stroll through the vineyards, discover the fermentation process, and taste local wines. There are plenty of activities to keep you busy during the three days of the festival!