Thailand

Shared by Laotians and residents of Isan, the Phi Khon Nam festival, sometimes called the Ghost Festival, attracts thousands of visitors to the northwest of the Land of Smiles. Full stop.

Thais are considered to be cheerful and lively people, and travelers in Isan will not tell you otherwise. In this region of the Northeast, in the village of Dan Sai, to be exact, a three-day festival in honor of Buddha animates the crowd between March and July. The locals don bright-colored costumes, wearing ghost disguises. On this occasion, the dead join the living to commemorate the return of Prince Siddhartha after a long journey. Dances, animist rituals, mask parades, spiritual contemplation… The Phi Khon Nam festival is an event not to be missed for experiencing an authentic journey in Northern Thailand.

When and where does the Phi Khon Nam festival take place?

The Phi Khon Nam festival is held once a year in Dan Sai, a small hillside village located in Lan Soei province in the Isan region bordering Laos. The festival's designation is slightly erroneous. The Phi Khon Nam, or "Ghost Festival," is only the delirious dance that opens the festivity. The event as a whole is called Boun Bhavet. It spans three days. The festival's opening date is determined by the lunar calendar. Generally, it falls between the months of March and July.

Beliefs and legends behind the festival

Like all other festivals in Thailand, the Phi Khon Nam festival has its roots in Buddhist tales. It recalls an episode of Buddha's earthly life—then known as Prince Vessantara Jataka—the episode where he left his father's kingdom for a long journey. Jataka was benevolent, and the villagers cherished him deeply. What a shock it was for them when the prince, presumed dead, returned from exile! There was singing, dancing, the commotion was so violent that it woke the dead from their tombs.

Phi Khon Nam was initially a ritual celebration of Buddha, where the dead mingled with the living in a fraternal dance. Later, the event became tinged with syncretism, with borrowings from animist traditions specific to the Loei region. Evidence of this is the invocation of rain or harvest spirits.

Highlights of the festival

Culture and authenticity enthusiasts will not miss this ghost festival for anything during a circuit in the heart of Isan. The event takes place over three days.

Day 1: The Ghost Festival (Wan Ruam)

This is the most important day of the festival. The ghost dancers arrive in the village, wearing baggy pants and brightly colored shirts. The masks are adorned with caricatured motifs: the eyes bulge, the nose hangs below the mouth, and buffalo horns are placed on the head. If the dance is a sign of homage to Buddha, it also serves to invoke the spirit of Phra Pa Khut, a former Buddhist monk held in high esteem. According to local superstitions, he protects the Mun River, and his blessing ensures good harvests.

The dance continues with a solemn procession to Wat Chai Phon, the village's main sanctuary.

Day 2: Rocket contest (Rocket Festival)

From early in the day, participants paraded in the most unusual masks. Costumes are made from local materials: steamed glutinous rice balls, palm leaves, carved wood, etc. To excite the spectators, they attach sonorous bells to their belts and exhibit wooden phalluses. These sexual symbols are associated with abundance and fertility.

Folk music accompanies the parade. Next comes the rocket launch to attract the favor of the nature deities. The goal is to bring rain for the next farming season.

Day 3: Sacred gathering at Wat Chai Phon

The last day of the festival takes on a more solemn tone. The faithful gather at the village temple to pray and listen to the sermons of Buddhist priests.

Practical information

How to get there?

Air transport is not the most convenient way to reach Dan Sai. Phitsanulok Airport, serving Lan Soei province, is a two-hour drive from the village and has only a small number of flights per week. Udon Thani Airport, on the other hand, is a three-hour drive away. It is better to use land transportation. Bus services depart daily for Dan Sai from Phitsanulok station and Loei station.

• from Phitsanulok

Dan Sai is 144 kilometers northeast of Phitsanulok. Buses to Dan Sai operate between 12 p.m. and 4 p.m. There are two departures per day.

• from Loei

Dan Sai is just 89.4 km from Loei. There is no direct bus connecting the village to the provincial capital, but buses agree to stop at Dan Sai three or four times a day. The journey takes an hour and a half.

Precautions

Even though the Phi Nom Khan festival does not enjoy the same popularity as other Thai festivals, it attracts many Thais. Booking accommodations is essential.

When heading to Lan Soei between March and July, expect unbearable heat. At times, the thermometer reaches 35 °C. Don't forget to bring rain gear if you're traveling in mid-April or the following months.

What to see and do near Dan Sai?

A stay in Dan Sai also invites you to a seductive oenological stroll. For your information, the village is dedicated to wine production. Stroll through the vineyards, discover the fermentation process, and taste the local wines. There are plenty of activities to keep you busy during the three days of the festival!