Thailand
Perched atop the mountain of the same name, Wat Khao Khun Phanom is a popular pilgrimage site for travelers in Nakhon Si Thammarat, a province in southern Thailand renowned for its labyrinth of karst caves.
The atmosphere here blends hiking, spelunking, and meditation. Is it a retreat for Buddhist monks? A vast complex of natural caves? Or a repository of archaeological treasures reminiscent of the luxury and opulence of the Ayutthaya Kingdom? Wat Khao Khun Phanom is a bit of all of these. A monumental stone staircase leads tourists to the cave entrance. From gallery to gallery, ancient statues of the Buddha and other sacred objects captivate visitors. Remnants from King Taksin the Great—founder of the Thonburi Kingdom—invite contemplation. The variety of limestone formations, the tranquility of the surroundings, and the scenic view of the mountain make Wat Khao Khun Phanom a must-visit temple. It is located in Ban Ko, a small village in Phrom Khiri district, Nakhon Si Thammarat province, southern Thailand.
History
The temple holds significant historical importance, dating back to the Ayutthaya period (the second historical capital of Thailand after Sukhothai). Evidence includes the brick wall encircling the cave, built in a style similar to the fortifications of the old city.
The temple's history is intertwined with that of King Taksin the Great, who reportedly sought refuge in the depths of the cave after being ousted from the throne. Contrary to official records, he was not executed but was aided in his escape by his supporters. The circular ramparts surrounding the ridge were strategically built to guard the prisoner. According to another legend, Khao Khun Phanom was built on the orders of Chao Nara Suriyawong, a notable figure who governed the province in the late 18th century. He is said to have constructed it for his daughter, Kesini, as a summer palace. However, most villagers believe the temple served as the refuge of King Taksin the Great until his death in 1782. It was here that the ordination ceremony of the Thonburi sovereign took place, and he spent the rest of his life in monastic pursuit, unable to return to court after being betrayed and usurped by his comrade-in-arms, Yodfa Chulaloke.
Locals cherish King Taksin's memory as a model of heroism and bravery. They collectively decided to erect statues of Taksin—one in soldier attire and another in priestly robes.
Today
If time is short to visit all the sacred sites in the province, a visit to Wat Khao Khun Phanom suffices. It is a Buddhist monument of archaeological and historical significance.
Visiting the Buddhist Temple
Like other Buddhist sanctuaries and monasteries, Wat Khao Khun Phanom is majestically perched at a height, symbolizing monks' aspiration to leave the human world and approach the realm of gods. Expect a bit of climbing, though not overly strenuous, with an average altitude of 165 meters. The Khao Khun Phanom mountain stretches 750 meters long and 500 meters wide, featuring spectacular caves on the southeast side beneath cliffs.
Before entering, admire the brick walls and stucco motifs adorned with Chinese ceramics at the portal.
Inside the temple, around thirty Buddhist icons dating from the Ayutthaya era can be found. With a guide, visitors can learn about the artistic conventions of the time, particularly in sculpture and architecture. Bronze images dominate, depicting the Buddha seated in a lotus position with a flame halo on the chest and intricately styled hair. Some images rest on decorative pedestals. History enthusiasts may spot a stone believed to bear the footprint of the Lord Buddha. Keep an eye out for dazzling stalactites and stalagmites adorning the cave ceiling.
Beyond the magnificent rock formations, the mountain holds other surprises for visitors. The Khao Khun Phanom Scientific Study Center along the temple-cave route is worth a visit to learn about regional advancements in plant studies, herbs, and forestry. The museum's cultural program has garnered acclaim, winning the 2010 Tourism Thailand Award for excellence in leisure tourism sites. Alternatively, a walk through the rubber and mangosteen plantations is also recommended.
Practical information
Opening hours and admission
The temple is open daily except on public holidays, from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. Admission is free.
Getting there
Wat Khao Khun Phanom is a little over half an hour's drive north of Nakhon Si Thammarat, the province's largest city. As far as we know, there are no public buses serving the area. Consider hiring a motorbike taxi, tricycle, or private car. By car, take Highway 4016 and continue straight for 21 km; then, after passing Phrom Lok market, turn right. After 2.5 km, keen-eyed tourists will spot the temple plaque.
Dress code
Modest attire is required to enter prayer halls. Revealing or provocative clothing, as well as shorts that expose the legs and shoulders, are not allowed. Remember to remove your shoes.
Nearby attractions
After exploring Wat Khao Khun Phanom, numerous natural sites await nearby:
- Ai Khiao waterfall
- Wang Lung waterfall
- Phrom Lok waterfall
In Nakhon Si Thammarat city center, Wat Phra Mahathat, renowned for its architectural masterpiece, attracts a large number of visitors.
