Thailand

With its five Khmer-style pagodas, Wat Chai Watthanaram is one of the most important ruins in the royal city of Ayutthaya. Here's an overview of the temple.

The pyramid temples in Khmer style alone make a visit to Ayutthaya worthwhile. This is what Van Vliet, a Dutch merchant from the 17th century, wrote in his travel memoirs about Siam:

"In the meantime, we have seen some of the most elegant sanctuary towers of Siam, especially the large and small Abbentak, sparkling with gold and gemstones like a golden mountain. […] There used to be a gate that was only open to sovereigns, excluding all others. Inside were many images (supposedly) carved in solid gold. […] From there, we crossed a wide and very long gallery that had been built around this immense tower with a square base, completely filled with valuable golden icons, so that we almost considered the extraordinary multitude of medium-sized statues and statuettes to be negligible."

The large Abbentak is known today as Wat Chai Watthanaram. Bordered by the peaceful waters of the Chao Phraya River, this ruined Buddhist temple bears witness to the splendor and grandeur of Ayutthaya's past. It was a golden era when royal temples symbolized political power, and pilgrimages and royal family funerals were joyful celebrations, showcasing Khmer architecture at its best. During a few days in Ayutthaya, the second capital of Siam, Wat Chai Watthanaram is an essential monument to visit!

Historical notes

The temple was inaugurated in the year 1630, during the late period of Ayutthaya. Prasat Thong, the ruler of the time, expressed the desire to build a royal monastery in honor of his late foster mother. The choice of location was far from random: situated on the site of his mother's residence, the temple was a testament to filial love and Buddhist piety, aiming to present a favorable image of the ruler to his subjects. Upon completion, the structure was named Wat Chai Watthanaram, meaning "the Monastery of the Temple of Prosperity and Victory."

Around 1767, Burmese forces invaded the city of Ayutthaya, capitalizing on the incompetence of the reigning king, who was more a man of women than a courageous warrior. The sanctuary was plundered and stripped of all its treasures. It fell into ruin for two hundred and twenty years. In 1987, the Thai Department of Fine Arts undertook the site's restoration. In 1992, it reopened as a historical monument. The original architecture was lost.

Today: One of Ayutthaya's key temple ruins

Of the 1,500 temples that once graced the Venice of the East at its peak, barely fifteen have survived the test of time. Wat Chai Watthanaram is one of them. Completed after 20 years of work, this royal Buddhist monastery is one of the finest examples of Khmer art. Visitors can access it by road or river. Some books and manuscripts note a flattering resemblance between Wat Chai Watthanaram and the Angkor Wat complex. Those who have visited Angkor Wat claim that the former does not match the latter. Nevertheless, Wat Chai Watthanaram remains a magnificent Khmer ruin, and its inclusion on UNESCO's World Heritage List is well justified.

Architecture of the Buddhist Temple

Grand, monumental, and typical of Khmer art, the Monastery of Prosperity and Victory stands before you on the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya River. More than just a place of worship, it presents itself as a temple complex, including an ubosot (ordination hall), chapels, viharas (meeting halls), stupas, and monastic quarters.

The staggered layout is, it must be admitted, an artistic success. The building, in all its details, is a model of rigor and balance. Originally, an imposing wall surrounded the temple on all sides. It measured 194 meters long by 117 meters wide and reached nearly 2 meters high. The temple had eight entrance gates: two gates on the north side, two gates on the south side, one gate on the west side, and three gates facing the river. In the center was the main gate, access to which was forbidden, as it opened only when the royal barge docked at the temple. In the past, the façade walls were plastered with white plaster. Over the centuries, the plaster has faded away, exposing the red bricks.

The main attractions of the temple

Today's tourists cannot see the temple in its original splendor, when it resembled a golden mountain encrusted with gold and gemstones. Nevertheless, a few ruins are worth lingering over:

• The main prang: Entering through the central gate, follow the brick pathway that leads straight to the main prang. It rests on a square platform. Reaching 35 meters in height, this sanctuary tower symbolizes Mount Meru, the center of the world and the sacred abode of the gods. It is surrounded by 4 smaller prangs, representing the four continents and facing the four cardinal directions. The tip of the prang imitates the appearance of a lotus bud.
• Decorative frescoes in the gallery: Northeast of the platform, you can admire a gallery with roofs supported by perpendicular pillars. Inside are pictorial works depicting the legend of Vessantara Jataka (the name under which Buddha was known during his earthly life). Admire the Buddha sitting in a lotus position, rows of angels bowing before his wisdom, and the palace set amidst lush greenery.
• Buddha statues: Smiling Buddha images are visible on the recesses of the walls. Unfortunately, their heads are missing, a consequence of thefts and pillaging by Burmese soldiers.
• The campanile-like chedi: Heading north of the main prang, you'll see a small 18th-century chedi shaped like a campanile. It holds the ashes of Thamatthibet. For the record, Thamatthibet was a prince of Ayutthaya, the eldest son of King Borommakot (1733–1758). He was the presumptive heir to the throne but committed the folly of lying with four royal concubines. The punishment for this crime against majesty was death by flogging. Thamatthibet received 120 lashes, while the concubines were whipped 30 times. His father built this chedi for his cremation, in accordance with the customs of the time.

Practical information

Opening hours and admission prices

The site is open 7 days a week from 9 a.m. to 3:30 or 4 p.m., except on public holidays. Free entry for Thais. The entrance fee for non-Thais is 30 baht per person, equivalent to approximately €0.84.

When is the best time to visit?

For traveling to Ayutthaya, the most favorable months are December, January, and February. Rain is rare during this time of year, and it's warm without reaching the sweltering temperatures of March.

How to get there?

Wat Chai Watthanaram is administratively located in Ban Pom district, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya city, less than 70 km north of the capital. To reach it, you can take a bus, train, or boat and disembark on the east bank of the Chao Phraya River.

By bus

Public buses serve Ayutthaya from Bangkok. They depart from the Mochit bus terminal. Service hours are from 5:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.

By train

Head to Hualamphong railway station, where trains to Ayutthaya pick up passengers. It takes between one and a half and two and a half hours for a fare of 15 baht per person for third class (€0.5) and 65 baht per person for first class (€1.82). There's no need to come early in the morning, as there are over thirty departures per day.

By boat

Several tour operators organize boat cruises to Ayutthaya.

Once you arrive in the city center, simply hail a taxi or a pink tuk-tuk that will drop you off at the monastery gates.

Nearby…

Not far from Wat Chai Watthanaram, other Khmer ruins worth visiting include:

• Wat Phra Si Sanphet, hailed as the most beautiful temple in Ayutthaya Historical Park,
• Wat Ratchaburana, with its admirably preserved prang
• Wat Mahathat, just opposite the preceding temple;
• Wat Yai Chai Mongkol is famous for its large reclining Buddha.