Thailand

Erected on the site of a dormant volcano, Prasat Phnom Rung is an important Khmer ruin in Burinam, a province in northeastern Thailand. The curtain falls on the attraction.

The heat subsides. The fires of the setting sun bring out the pink sandstone and red laterite of the ancient temples of Phanom Rung. As one passes through the gopuras, examining the sculptures of reclining Vishnu, dancing Shiva, or serpentiform deities on the lintels, and advancing towards the lotus-shaped mountain tower that evokes the abode of Shiva, the visitor is transported back to the glory days of the Khmer Empire. Prasat Phnom Rung has retained its original beauty after restoration work undertaken in the 1970s and 1980s. It is a love letter to archaeology, an open-air museum, and a millennia-old Hindu temple bearing witness to the luxury and grandeur of the Mahiddharapura dynasty. Not to be missed for anything in the world during your next visit to Isan.

History

The building was a major center of Shaivite Hinduism, the state religion adopted by the Khmer Empire at its inception. The foundations were laid at the dawn of the 10th century on the summit of an extinct volcano called Khao Phnom Rung. The Khmer characters found on the site attest to this. The origin of the word also supports this, as Prasat Hin Phanom Rung, the full name of the temple, can be broken down into "Prasat Hin," which means stone palace, and "Phanom Rung," derived from the Khmer "Vnam Rung," or wide mountain.

Construction spanned over three hundred years. The main prang, which rises higher than all others, dates only from the 12th century, as do most of the sculptural motifs. To the northeast of the main prang stand Koh I-style towers dating from the 10th century. In the 13th century, the complex was equipped with two library halls designated bannalai, indicating the emergence of a literary culture. The location atop a hill is intentional; the sanctuary is a reflection of Shiva's celestial abode on Mount Kailash.

Over the years, the religious complex fell into disuse. The Thai Department of Fine Arts took care to restore it—not to alter it, but to restore and perpetuate its legend. The project was successfully completed after 17 years.

Today

Setting off for Burinam, a northeastern province of Thailand bordering Cambodia, tourists have only one thing on their minds: the dream temple of Phnom Rung. And how understandable that is! An inheritance of the Angkor Empire, which commanded much of Southeast Asia from the 9th to the 13th centuries, Phnom Rung is a prestigious archaeological monument bearing undeniable artistic value. The application for listing as a World Heritage Site was submitted in 2005. The site has been on UNESCO's waiting list since 2019. By making a reconnaissance visit, you will realize for yourself that the distinction is fully deserved.

UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Art Institute of Chicago. After 17 years of restoration,.

Prasat Phnom Rung alone justifies the tourist trip to Burinam.

Visit to the Khmer temple, Prasat Phnom Rung

The stone marquetry set on a volcanic hill at Phnom Rung Temple is a visual delight. The best way to visit it is with a guide who will be able to describe every door, every walkway, every sculpture, and every liturgical object of the temple. For those opting for a self-guided tour, here are the most notable attractions:.

-The green alley: you will certainly enjoy strolling along this 160-meter-long alley. The wooded setting invites relaxation, and in addition, you will have a nice view of the sanctuary tower.

-The Nagas Bridges: at the end of the alley, you climb a majestic stone staircase that leads you to the outer courtyard and the galleries of the sanctuary. The path to Shiva's celestial abode passes through three nagas bridges (mythical serpents with dragon heads standing at the ends of the walkways). For Hindu devotees, these bridges represent the point of passage between the earthly and the divine world.

-The master tower: after crossing the third and last Nagas bridge, you reach the main prang (sanctuary). Inside are the lingam of the god Shiva and the yoni of his wife Parvati. Delicate sculptures dating mostly from the 12th century adorn the pediments and the entrance doors, called gopuras.

-The lintel of Phra Narai: among these precious ornaments is the lintel of the east gate, which highlights a reclining Vishnu on a sea monster. It measures 3 feet by 2 feet. In the 1960s, thieves plundered the temple of this sculptural piece. The Art Institute of Chicago acquired it in 1967 from a Bangkok dealer and exhibited it for 20 years. The Thai government requested the return of the lintel, a request the museum eventually granted in 1988 when the Alsdorf Foundation, wanting to settle the matter, donated an artifact of equivalent artistic value.

Above the lintel, admire the four-armed god Shiva performing the dance of bliss. The sculptures on the bas-reliefs are just as interesting: a combat elephant crushing a soldier, a well-known scene from the Ramayana, or caricatural evocations of the hierarchical regime of Angkor.

-The small prang: the Prang Noi is a small cubic-plan sanctuary established in the inner courtyard. It belongs to Baphuon art, unlike the main tower, which reflects Angkor art. This prang is the oldest structure in the complex.

-The bannalai: of more recent origin, the two bannalai are halls specially reserved for reading and studying the Holy Scriptures. One is located northeast, and the other is southeast of the main tower.

Practical information

Opening hours and entrance fees

The historical park is open every day from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. The entrance toll is different for resident and foreign tourists: the former pay 20 THB (56 cents) and the latter 100 THB (2.8 €). For time and money savings, it is customary to combine a visit to Prasat Phom Rung with that of Prasat Muang Tam, another equally famous Khmer monument located 8 kilometers further away. You will be charged 150 THB (4.2 €) for both.

When to go?

To visit the complex in good weather, it is best to choose your dates between the first and last months of the year. Winter reigns in the Burinam region at this time of year: the days remain warm, but the nights are slightly chilly. Temperatures warm up from March onward and peak in April.

How to get there?

In the absence of a taxi, the tourist has no other option but to rent a private car to get to the Khmer temple. No public transportation serves it. Car rental companies are mainly located near Burinam or Surin airports. Otherwise, local hotels often offer scooter or motorcycle rentals.

In the surroundings

The province of Burinam itself lacks remarkable monuments if we exclude Phanom Rung and Muang Tam. In the vicinity, Parsat Hin Phimai is worth a look as the most important Khmer temple in the country. The Surin Elephant Festival, held in November, is also extremely popular. Surin is about fifty kilometers from Burinam.