Thailand

Often overlooked by tour operators, Isan boasts some of Thailand's most surprising and authentic destinations.

Isan refers to a geographical region in northeastern Thailand, bordered by Laos and Cambodia. From Bangkok, you can fly to Ubon, Udon Thani, or Nakhon Ratchasima. The contrast between the two regions is quite striking.

The green of the rice fields, the sight of buffaloes in the fields, the gentle melody of Mor Lam accompanied by a khaen player, the elegance of finely embroidered sarongs, the traditional silk craft, stilt houses covered in foliage… It's in Isan that Thailand's tradition manifests in all its facets! You'll visit wonderful national parks, dotted with waterfalls and natural pools; you'll explore Buddhist temples; you'll participate in joyful folk festivals, like the Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival, to mention just the most famous one, and, to top it all off, you'll enjoy a leisurely cruise on the Mekong River.

A journey rich in discoveries, where authenticity is the keyword, awaits you in Isan.

History

Isan, also spelled Issan or Ihsan, has historical ties with Laos and Cambodia. The Khmer Empire of Angkor ruled the region before the beginning of the Christian era. The red and pink sandstone mountain temples, commonly called prangs, are the legacy of this period. The most notable Khmer ruins are those of Phimai and Phnom Rung. Around 1300, the Lao kingdom of Lan Xang, or the Million Elephants, rose to power and conquered neighboring territories. It was from this moment that Laotians migrated in large numbers to northeastern Thailand. This resulted in a cultural blend evident in language, cuisine, traditional costumes, and religious architecture.

Isan was incorporated into Siam under the reign of the Chakri dynasty, which undertook the unification of Thailand. This was in the 17th century. The integration of the Thai Lao people was not without violence. Thousands of families were forcibly deported from the left bank of the river to the right bank to promote the social integration of Isan residents. The Thai government spread the rumor that Isan came from the old Sanskrit word Isana, a glorious name of Shiva, to facilitate social integration.

Nevertheless, the Isan people suffer from stigmas associated with their Khmer and Laotian origins. Citizens of central Thailand tend to look down on them, considering their neighbors as uncivilized and uncouth. The confession of Pira Sudham, a literary figure from Isan, is heartbreaking: "Some Bangkok Thais… said that I was not Thai, but… a buffalo or a peasant."

Today: an economically disadvantaged region banking on the future of tourism

Poverty is more prevalent in Isan than in any other part of Thailand. This is partly due to the massive rural exodus affecting the region. Many young people migrate to Bangkok and the islands in search of work. In this context, tourism proves to be an engine of economic growth.

Traveling to Isan doesn't cross the minds of many travelers. They are more inclined to think of the City of Angels or the historical city of Ayutthaya. Yet, Isan's destinations have plenty to offer if you enjoy going back to basics and breaking the norms of civilization. Tourist infrastructure falls far short of European standards. There are no public transportation services serving small towns. Crossing Isan is all the more exciting for it. Tourism in Isan focuses on nature, the beauty of rice fields, artisanal craftsmanship, culinary flavors, and Buddhist architecture, not to mention the ruins of prehistoric civilizations.

Places to see and visit on site

Welcome to the largest region of Thailand! For your delight, your local travel agency organizes theme tours to carefully selected cities and villages. The most popular destinations are Nakhon Ratchasima, Buriram, Udon Thani, Ubon Ratchathani, and Loei.

Archaeological heritage

Nakhon Ratchasima, the regional capital of Isan, is known for its significant Khmer ruins. The Prasat Hin Phimai is a must-see: a characteristic sugarloaf sanctuary tower from the era! From there, you can continue to the archaeological sites of Phanom Rung and Muang Tam, which are the pride of Buriram. Shiva, Vishnu, voluptuous Apsara deities… The entire Hindu pantheon is on display. Along the road between Phimai and Phanom Rung lies the Sai Ngam botanical garden. Make a detour there, if only to capture a photo of Asia's largest banyan tree. Its age is estimated to be over 350 years!

Natural heritage

Subsistence agriculture remains the backbone of the economy. Hikers will be delighted to wander through flooded rice fields and traverse cassava and sugarcane fields. Homestay accommodation is an opportunity to make friends with locals and share their daily lives. Elephants and water buffaloes are plentiful in Isan's rural villages. Youngsters will love swimming alongside elephants, watching buffaloes plow rice fields, or guiding them in the stable; it's a unique experience!

Hiking enthusiasts often combine immersing themselves in a tribal community with the joys of ecotourism. Given the majestic mountainous scenery, visits to national parks are passionate pursuits.

When visiting Loei or Khon Kaen, don't miss Phu Kradung National Park, known for its viewpoints, waterfalls, and rugged terrain; continue to Phu Rea National Park and be rewarded with a unique view of Laos and the Mekong awaiting you at the summit of Phu Ruea (1,065 m).

Heading somewhere in southern Isan? Treat yourself to a visit to Pha Taem National Park, 20 km from Khong Chiam, Ubon Ratchathani district. The red waters of the Mekong, the deafening waterfall, and the mushroom-like rocks create an enchanting setting conducive to wandering and daydreaming. You'll be curious to examine the caricature-like figures painted directly on the rock. Rock art was created 3,000 or 4,000 years ago by cavemen! During a cruise on the Mekong, don't miss Sam Phon Bok, a set of rocky dunes polished by the waves and littered with strange-shaped water pockets. Locals affectionately call it "Thailand's Grand Canyon." It's up to you to judge if the site is indeed as beautiful as its nickname suggests!

Temples and monuments

Temples, stupas, and pagodas are inseparable from the landscape. The social and cultural life of the village revolves around the temple. Some exceptional monuments are worth lingering over:

- The Sala Keoku Sculpture Park, located 5 km from Nong Khai;
- Wat Ban Rai, reigning in the city center of Nakhon Ratchasima;
- Wat Pa Maha Chedi Kaew, built with recycled beer bottles. A must-see monument in Sisaket!
- Wat Nong Wang, the most beautiful architectural jewel of Khon Kaen. Visitors come to admire its imposing nine-story stupa, whose plan was influenced by the Eiffel Tower and the Shwedagon Pagoda of Rangoon;
- Wat Pa Phu Kon, known for its turquoise-blue tiled viharn and its 20-meter reclining
Buddha cast in Carrara white marble. Between Nong Khai and Udon Thani.

Cultural heritage

While traveling in Isan, you'll certainly have the opportunity to admire the beliefs and cultural traditions. Unlike Western Europe, where Christians are believers but not very practicing, here Buddhism has a considerable influence on daily life. To convince yourself, visit the Phi Ta Kon festival, held in the small village of Dan Sai, Loei province. This three-day ceremony commemorates the return of Prince Gautama to his hometown after many years of exile. The dead are said to have risen from their graves to join the living in celebration. Among the other famous festivals, it is worth mentioning the Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival, during which carriages loaded with giant sculpted candles parade through the streets, the Surin Elephant Parade, which takes place every year during the third week of November, and the Silk Festival that enlivens the quiet village of Khon Kaen in December.

A tailor-made trip to Isan may include traditional singing and dancing performances. You'll get to hear a piece of Mor Lam, a form of music popular in Laos and Isan around the 1920s, accompanied by a three-string guitar, a lute, and a few cymbals.

Cuisine is also an essential component of indigenous cultural heritage. To eat well, Isanians need a bowl of sticky rice, along with dishes made from green herbs, fruits, vegetables, and various spices. Isan's most famous dishes include Sum Tum (crunchy papaya salad), larb, and bamboo shoot soup. Enthusiasts can take local cooking classes.

Finally, Isan is known for being a land of weavers, silk manufacturers, and skilled artisans. Visitors' visits are an opportunity for them to sell the fruits of their labor. From Surin to Sisaket, from Nong Khai to Udon Thani, from Loei to Khon Kaen, handicrafts are a major attraction. You can discover a silkworm farm, learn weaving, or learn the techniques of making gongs. When leaving the village, don't forget to buy some items as souvenirs. This way, you'll be helping rural communities living in severe deprivation.

Practical information

When to go to Isan?

The answer to this question depends on your tourist choices. If your goal is to hike in nature, see rice fields, and admire waterfalls, it's worth coming during the height of the rainy season. From July to October, vegetation explodes after storms, giving the walk all its charm. If you intend to focus your stay on heritage visits, plan your departure between November and February. This is the best time to go to Isan: the sky is perfectly clear, and it's hot without being scorching.

How to get there?

For cheap travel to Isan, the bus is the best option. Bus services depart for all cities from Bangkok.

The plane is a convenient and comfortable mode of transport. Regular flights connect Bangkok to major destinations in the region, namely Buriram, Loei, Ubon Thani, Ubon Ratchathani, Khon Kaen, and Sakon Nakhon. To fly straight to Nong Khai, the easiest way is to book a flight to Udon Thani. Each airport has a shuttle service that drops passengers directly into the city center.

Discover Isan with our Wonders of Isan tour.