The Betsimisaraka, literally "those who do not separate," form a significant Malagasy ethnic group inhabiting the island's eastern coast, from Mananjary to Vohémar. They are, in fact, the second-largest tribe in Madagascar. 

Living in a humid tropical climate, this warm and welcoming people draw their laid-back culture and joy of life from the rich natural setting of dense forests, lush vegetation, and long stretches of white sandy beaches.

The birth of the Betsimisaraka Kingdom

Around 1720, Ratsimilaho, the son of English pirate Thomas White and Malagasy woman Rahena, conquered Fenoarivo, or "the city of a thousand warriors," with the help of northern peoples known as the Antavaratra. He is said to have later made a blood pact with allied tribal chiefs to solidify their alliance forever. This marked the birth of the first Betsimisaraka Kingdom, over which this conqueror reigned under the name Ramaromanompo, or "the one served by many people."

The Betsimisaraka People

This large ethnic group consists of approximately 1.5 million Betsimisaraka spread across roughly 72,000 km² of Madagascar's eastern coastline. They are a sedentary people who primarily rely on slash-and-burn agriculture and fishing for their livelihood. This part of the island is governed by a social organization based on a system of chieftaincies called tanky. Each chieftaincy comprises descendants from the same lineage with a common ancestor and a shared lônjobe or principal tomb, governed by a set of fady (taboos). A lineage may split into sub-lineages called taranaka, leading to the creation of a secondary tomb known as tranomanara.

The life of the Betsimisaraka

In major cities like Toamasina and Mananjary, lifestyles are heavily influenced by the West, but outside of these urban areas, traditional ways of life persist. Many Betsimisaraka still live in stilt houses made of plant materials, known as trano falafa, and depend on agriculture (notably slash-and-burn rice cultivation), fishing, and livestock farming for their sustenance.

Collective mutual aid, or the famous firaisan-kina (derived from fihavanana), remains a strong tradition in Betsimisaraka villages. Any opportunity to celebrate is seized, featuring collective songs and dances characterized by hip movements reminiscent of Polynesian dances.

Men and women in Betsimisaraka society

Women wear lambahoany (long patterned fabric) and apply masonjoany (a beauty and sun protection mask) daily, or they wear a shirt (akanjobe) and a sheath skirt (saimbo). Men sometimes wear lambahoany as well, or alternatively, shorts paired with a shirt or T-shirt. 

While men are the heads of households and villages, women are the mistresses of the home, and their opinions are always taken seriously. Women retain inherited or gifted assets, and in cases of divorce, communal property is divided equally, unlike the customs of the Highlands.

The worship of ancestors

As in all Malagasy societies, ancestors influence the daily lives of the Betsimisaraka. The famadihana or tsaboraha (the turning of the dead) and the joro (communication with ancestors) are two highly significant ceremonies. Tombs are always located far from villages, deep in the forest, and are considered sacred sites. Nosy Antafana, one of the islets in the Mananara Nord Marine Park, was once a burial site.

The Betsimisaraka and the Forest

According to Betsimisaraka beliefs, the forest is a sacred place where the dead are buried and supernatural beings, such as tsiny and kalanôro, dwell. It is a place of danger where the transformation of death occurs. No one enters the forest without being accompanied by a dog or carrying a knife.

To cultivate rice safely, it is essential to burn all surrounding trees. This explains the practice of slash-and-burn agriculture! However, economic challenges and the arrival of new migrants are gradually changing mindsets and "eclipsing" some of these beliefs.